This route is located about 100 feet beyond Eumenides
. Look for the next continuous dihedral. The start is below a roof/dihedral. Scramble an easy 4th class dihedral crack until about 40 feet below roof/dihedral.
P1. 5.9. Head slightly left up a slab to the roof. Place pro in roof and pull over at a crack. Follow corner until it turns into a nice dihedral. At the top, undercling out small bulge to the left and make a few moves to easier ground. Good pro. Rossiter's guidebook says 6 inch crack, but the wide section is very short. ~180'.
P2. 5.7. Climb up and back right into the dihedral for a long, wide, lieback pitch. Toward the end of the pitch I climbed out of the dihedral at an old rap anchor to the right moved up and stepped back in to the dihedral to avoid a wide section. Belay at a small alcove with good, hand-sized cracks. Kinda of dirty and wide. There was some vegetation in the dihedral that was dusty and annoying. May want an additional big piece, ~170'.
P3. 5.9, the business. Climb a very thin dihedral with a black groove in it. Place pro early as there is not much for the next 10 feet. There is a trick to getting started and some hidden pro. The dihedral opens to good, finger liebacks with some tricky but solid pro. At the top of the dihedral, move left across a slab. Go to the end of the slab and belay below another, left-facing dihedral. Maybe 30-40 feet to the left of the thin dihedral. I found the crux to be about ten feet up at a small bulge with a very poor Alien at my waist. A couple of moves and you can get some bomber pro and good finger locks, ~110'.
P4. 5.8. Climb a left-facing dihedral and move right to a slightly overhanging, short, hand crack. Crank through the overhang and follow another shallow dihedral. Belay on an awesome chair-like ledge, ~100'.
P5. 5.8. Pick a finish. Eds. The original finish angles right and pash a bush in a crack.
We finished with Eumenides
, which basically climbed a neat finger crack to the left and pulled over a small roof 40 feet above the belay. From there, I went left and up picking the easiest way as I was beat! ~180'.
P6. 5.6. Up to the top, ~100'.
Notes: A good route with a spicy crux - a fine Sundance adventure. This is my first year leading 9s and the crux mentally pushed me mostly because the pro was kinda nasty, although it was all good climbing. P2 [was the only pitch I did not care for]. I am curious to see what other folks think.
Standard rack. Small nuts/Aliens to #3 Camalot. May want an additional larger cam (old style #4 Camalot).