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English Hanging Gardens 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA:  FFA: John Gosling 1970
Page Views: 1,163
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006

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BETA PHOTO: E.H.G. starts via the left water streak above/righ...

Description 

This bolted route runs up the leftmost dark water streak right of the Rat Crack. Its start is very hard, with the first bolt coming after some serious moves. It was initially rated 11b and considered a sandbag. It rarely sees action mostly because of the nature of Big Rock's clientele, and the tough start.


Protection 

Four bolts, bolted anchor



Photos of English Hanging Gardens Slideshow Add Photo
The ominous start of English Hanging Gardens.
The ominous start of English Hanging Gardens.
The anchor for EHG, on low angle slab.  Not a top-rope problem.  Unless you own a webbing company.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor for EHG, on low angle slab. Not a top-...
Comments on English Hanging Gardens Add Comment
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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Decent enough climbing, but it's rarely done as most people are there to climb the moderate slabs.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

It is most definitely sand bag at 11d the opening move is the whole thing its a nasty 5.12+ in your face mantle I have worked on it for hours years ago and never pulled it off only seen it done once and that was by one of the original Riverside Quarry developers.

By Eric Easton
Jul 3, 2013

Did this a few times in the 80's. It's a stem/mantle with a high reach, after you stick clip the bolt. Kevin Powell called it 11d back then, said 'you've got to want it'. Probably 12a or b

By Keith Leaman
May 16, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b

It's good to finally get a consensus on the difficulty of EHG. I was with Dr. John Gosling and the Gleason brothers during the first ascent in 1970. We each took our turns leading it after John (sans clip stick!). Naturally, almost 50 years ago, we were hesitant to rate anything higher than 5.9 and only joked about something being rated 5.12, but there it is.

Pat Merrill made the first hand-drawn guide to Big Rock in 1970 and had EHG rated as 5.9! We all laughed at that when Phil and I saw the first copies. I think we all decided it had to be at least 5.10, and that we should probably accept the fact that some of the climbing we were doing should receive a 5.11 rating as well.

Those first moves over the overhang were really thin and quite memorable. The next time I talk to Dr. Gosling I'll ask if he remembers the climb. He teaches at Stanford Medical School.