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English Hanging Gardens 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a/b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA:  FFA: John Gosling 1970
Page Views: 1,076
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: E.H.G. starts via the left water streak above/righ...

Description 

This bolted route runs up the leftmost dark water streak right of the Rat Crack. Its start is very hard, with the first bolt coming after some serious moves. It was initially rated 11b and considered a sandbag. It rarely sees action mostly because of the nature of Big Rock's clientele, and the tough start.


Protection 

Four bolts, bolted anchor



Photos of English Hanging Gardens Slideshow Add Photo
The ominous start of English Hanging Gardens.
The ominous start of English Hanging Gardens.
The anchor for EHG, on low angle slab.  Not a top-rope problem.  Unless you own a webbing company.
BETA PHOTO: The anchor for EHG, on low angle slab. Not a top-...
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By C Miller
Administrator
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Decent enough climbing, but it's rarely done as most people are there to climb the moderate slabs.

By Bruce Diffenbaugh
From: Cheyenne,Wyoming
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX E6 6b

It is most definitely sand bag at 11d the opening move is the whole thing its a nasty 5.12+ in your face mantle I have worked on it for hours years ago and never pulled it off only seen it done once and that was by one of the original Riverside Quarry developers.

By Eric Easton
Jul 3, 2013

Did this a few times in the 80's. It's a stem/mantle with a high reach, after you stick clip the bolt. Kevin Powell called it 11d back then, said 'you've got to want it'. Probably 12a or b