|Type:||Trad, 1 pitch, 70'|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]|
|FA:||FFA: John Gosling 1970|
|Submitted By:||Adam Stackhouse on Feb 28, 2006|
Big Rock is currently closed to climbing.MORE INFO >>>
|Comments on English Hanging Gardens||Add Comment|
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By C Miller
Mar 7, 2006
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
|Decent enough climbing, but it's rarely done as most people are there to climb the moderate slabs.|
By Bruce Diffenbaugh
Feb 5, 2008
rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
|It is most definitely sand bag at 11d the opening move is the whole thing its a nasty 5.12+ in your face mantle I have worked on it for hours years ago and never pulled it off only seen it done once and that was by one of the original Riverside Quarry developers.|
By Eric Easton
Jul 3, 2013
|Did this a few times in the 80's. It's a stem/mantle with a high reach, after you stick clip the bolt. Kevin Powell called it 11d back then, said 'you've got to want it'. Probably 12a or b|
By Keith Leaman
May 16, 2014
rating: 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
It's good to finally get a consensus on the difficulty of EHG. I was with Dr. John Gosling and the Gleason brothers during the first ascent in 1970. We each took our turns leading it after John (sans clip stick!). Naturally, almost 50 years ago, we were hesitant to rate anything higher than 5.9 and only joked about something being rated 5.12, but there it is.
Pat Merrill made the first hand-drawn guide to Big Rock in 1970 and had EHG rated as 5.9! We all laughed at that when Phil and I saw the first copies. I think we all decided it had to be at least 5.10, and that we should probably accept the fact that some of the climbing we were doing should receive a 5.11 rating as well.
Those first moves over the overhang were really thin and quite memorable. The next time I talk to Dr. Gosling I'll ask if he remembers the climb. He teaches at Stanford Medical School.