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Unsorted Routes:

English Breakfast Crack 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Chris Fredericks & Kim Schmitz, July 1966 FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1971
Page Views: 2,434
Submitted By: Dennis on Feb 22, 2008
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1st pitch
  • 2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
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  • Description 

    This route is similar to Midterm in that it calls upon many different techniques from fingers to chimney. The first pitch has the wide, the second involves steep, gorgeous finger jamming with an interesting and awkward finish.


    Location 

    15 feet to the left of Midterm.


    Protection 

    Cams to 6", doubles in the .5-1" recommended.


    Rap anchors at the top of each pitch. Definitely ok with one 70m, probably fine with one 60m.



    Comments on English Breakfast Crack Add Comment
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    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Mar 22, 2010

    As of march 2010- old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
    Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes

    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 22, 2010
    rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

    Take at least 1 very large cam, and save some .5-.75" stuff for the crux finish. With a lot of slings, this goes as a fabulous single pitch.

    By Luke Stefurak
    From: Mountain View, CA
    Feb 14, 2011

    I got hosed with rope drag doing it in one pitch. I would do it in 2 pitches (next time) especially since the belay stance is pretty decent. You can get down with one rope. Large cam is very useful!

    By Osprey
    From: ...
    Jan 7, 2012

    FA: Chris Fredericks, Kim Schmitz, 7/1966
    FFA: Jim Bridwell, by 1971

    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Jan 22, 2013

    Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb.