English Breakfast Crack 5.10c PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10+ [details] |
| FA: | Chris Fredericks & Kim Schmitz, July 1966 FFA: Jim Bridwell, 1971 |
| Submitted By: | Dennis on Feb 22, 2008 |
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1st pitch
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2012 Closures MORE INFO >>>
Yearly raptor closures typically begin March 1 and remain in effect until August 1, or until further notice.
As of March 1, 2012: Lower Merced River Gorge. Closure includes all routes with the following exception: routes west of and including "Later" and northeast of and including "Juliette's Flake" remain open.
See the following website for more info:
www.nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/climbingclosures.htm
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Fifi Buttress To Close! MORE INFO >>>
The following areas are closed to all visitor use to protect peregrine falcon aeries from March 1 until August 1 of each year or until the young falcons of the current year have fledged: Fifi Buttress Immediately west of Leaning Tower. Closure includes all routes on Fifi Buttress.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project.
You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description This route is similar to Midterm in that it calls upon many different techniques from fingers to chimney. The first pitch has the wide, the second involves steep, gorgeous finger jamming with an interesting and awkward finish.
Location 15 feet to the left of Midterm.
Protection Cams to 6", doubles in the .5-1" recommended.
Rap anchors at the top of each pitch. Definitely ok with one 70m, probably fine with one 60m.
| Comments on English Breakfast Crack |
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By Alexey
From: San Jose
Mar 22, 2010
| As of march 2010- old bolts at the top of second pitch was replaced by new/good .
Also intermediate slings/cluster at the top of p1 one was completely removed. Now it is is safe to rappel English Breakfast, but you need two ropes |
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 22, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| Take at least 1 very large cam, and save some .5-.75" stuff for the crux finish. With a lot of slings, this goes as a fabulous single pitch. |
By Luke Stefurak
From: Mountain View, CA
Feb 14, 2011
| I got hosed with rope drag doing it in one pitch. I would do it in 2 pitches (next time) especially since the belay stance is pretty decent. You can get down with one rope. Large cam is very useful! |
By Osprey
From: ...
Jan 7, 2012
| FA: Chris Fredericks, Kim Schmitz, 7/1966
FFA: Jim Bridwell, by 1971 |
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Jan 22, 2013
| Better save some juice for the top on the onsite attempt. Great, great climb. |
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