English Breakfast Crack 5.10+
| 1,649 page views
Good page?   |
| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10c [details] |
| FA: | EFR,JSt,'06 |
| New Route: | Yes |
| Season: | Fall, Spring, Winte |
| Submitted By: | 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 26, 2006 |
| |
Rachel Nelson on English Breakfast Crack 5.9/10
Add Photo  Printer View
Description 5.9/10+ This route has been set up so you can do the 5.9 crack then lower off from chains or go through the bolted 5.10 upper headwall and lower off. This splitter crack starts on the right side of the formation now being called The Griddle. It is around the corner and can't be seen when looking at the wall itself. A short slightly grungy section leads to a ledge. A few dihedral moves get you to about 25 feet of great finger crack. If you climb past the first chains you will be on the 5.10 upper headwall.
Protection Mostly finger sized stoppers and cams although a big cam will give you some peace of mind getting to the first ledge.
Will S on English Breakfast Crack. What do you k...
|
Ryan nuttin up
|
Jammin
|
Haag on belay
|
Marcy Makarewicz lookin' fine on EBC.
|
Greg starting the upper headwall on this fine clim...
|
Joel Hunt finishing EBC
|
Wendy belays as Andy gets overheated on English Br...
| |
| Comments on English Breakfast Crack |
|
By Andy Peters
Mar 3, 2006
| English Breakfast: Is the perfect introduction to 5.9 trad climbing.It may be short,but it has "Star Quality" crack climbing that is well protected and also make's a great TR.If the approach was twice as far,I'd still hike up to do this climb alone.Thank's to Eric and Jim for putting this climb up! |
By Boodge Nomchompski
Dec 13, 2008
| The bottom half of the route felt very easy for 5.9 (compared to say, any of the 9's on Chimney Rock, or Forest Lawn in Cochise) so I'd give it an 8 because of one move down low. The gear is straight-forward and is small to medium. Biggest piece I used was a .4 camalot. If this crack was 100 feet long it would be classic anywhere. |
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Jan 27, 2009
rating: 5.10+
| soft for 5.9, stiff for 5.8. let's call it 5.c. lulz. |
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 4, 2010
| the bottom section is suprisingly splitter for mt. lemmon. the top 5.10 section is fun, but tricky. some of the holds are a bit hard to find!
i give the bottom section 3 stars; the top 2. |
By dale polen
From: arivaca, az
Nov 30, 2010
| Great climb. tHE CRACK IS PROBABLY ONLY 5.7. NO HARDER NO WAY. the top is difficult to figure out. do you go straght up to the left of the bolt. or do you wuss out and go left further from the bolt to the better holds. I am not sure which is the correct path. |
By Jimbo
Nov 30, 2010
| Sorry Dale, in the future we'll rate every bit of trad stuff a grade below what we think is, so you don't get upset, and make sure we chalk the holds on the harder sports stuff so you don't get confused.
You led Solar Flare yet? Love to hear how hard you think that is.
Geir led Solar E-Clips on gear, you should do that too so we know how hard we should rate that.
Then go up and lead Red Dwarf, if I have to change the ratings on all the trad routs at Sunspots I want to do all at once.
Thanks.
|
By Jon Ruland
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 1, 2010
rating: 5.10+
| so what's the deal, some people are just going to grade half the climb and the rest are going to grade the whole thing? that seems a little misleading. actually that seems like utter chaos.
can we not grade the climb if haven't done the whole thing, please? kthxbai. |
By Jimbo
Dec 1, 2010
| Don't ask me, ask Dale. |
By Steve Pulver
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 2, 2010
| I had to google kthxbai and found this cute kitty
We need some people to rate the upper part and not the lower part to even it out. |
By Charles Vernon
From: Tucson, AZ
Dec 3, 2010
rating: 5.13-
| There, that should do it. |
|
RSS Feed
3 more...
Slideshow
