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Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gagelfänger 6b 
Naebel und Chempae 6a 

Engelhoerner 


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Lat, Long: 46.6827, 8.1807 Map
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Administrators: Dan Flynn, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Colin Winter on Dec 27, 2011

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Kingspitz north face

Description 

Towering above the small village of Innertkirchen in the Bernese Oberland, the Engelhoerner are a group of bizarre, jagged limestone peaks. Included in the group is the gigantic Kingspitz, which is known for its very long, very alpine routes. A number of the surrounding peaks offer some of the best long alpine sport routes that Switzerland has to offer.

The rock in the alpine sport climbing areas is generally of very high quality and quite compact. Most of the routes are on southwest faces, and get sun from the late morning through the late afternoon. The best seasons are summer and autumn (there is often snow in the area until late spring, making the approach very tedious at this time of year).

Climbing at the Engelhörner is fairly popular. On weekends during the prime climbing season, one is unlikely to be alone on any of the routes, at least the moderate ones.

There are numerous guidebooks covering the area, including plaisir-west, schweiz extrem-west and sportklettern berner oberland.


Getting There 

On the saddle between Meiringen and Innertkirchen, take the turn-off (right by the one and only gas station) for Rosenlaui. Follow the road up the valley until Gschwantenmad.

For all routes near the Engerlhoerner hut, turn left there, cross a bridge, and follow a small, unpaved and private road for several kilometers, gaining a fair bit of elevation, until you reach an obvious parking place. Park there, and walk up to the nearby alp to pay the fee for using the road (CHF 15). The approach begins behind the alp, and it takes around 60 minutes to get to the Engelhoerner hut. From the hut, the approach times are generally short (15 minutes).

For routes on the Tannenspitze or Rosenlauistock, continue driving up the valley until you reach Rosenlaui. Park there and follow the marked trail towards the Engelhoerner hut. Break from this trail undearneath the Rosenlauistock to access the routes there.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Engelhoerner:
Naebel und Chempae 6a   5.10a     Sport, 12 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV   
Gagelfänger 6b   5.10b     Sport, 13 pitches, 1200 feet, Grade IV   
Browse More Classics in Engelhoerner

Featured Route For Engelhoerner
The majestic Vorderspitz. Naebel und Chempae ascends the south / southwest face.

Naebel und Chempae 6a 5.10a  International : Europe : ... : Engelhoerner
An amazing sport climb with a distinctly alpine feel. Very interesting for the grade, and remarkably homogeneous in its entirety. Particularly in the upper half of the route, it is one stellar pitch after another. To boot, there's a proper top-out with incredible views in all directions. If the grade suits, and you have one day at the Engelhoerner, this is the route to go for.Pitches go at 5a, 5b, 6a, 5c+, 3a, 4c, 5c+, 6a, 5c, 6a, 5c+, 6a....[more]   Browse More Classics in International


Photos of Engelhoerner Slideshow Add Photo
The imposing north face of the Kingspitz

The imposing north face of the Kingspitz

Looking down on Meiringen from the top of the Gross Simelistock

Looking down on Meiringen from the top of the Gros...

The Engelhoerner hut.  Great place to stay with a short approach to most climbs.

The Engelhoerner hut. Great place to stay with a ...