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Morning Glory Wall
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Energy Crisis 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 85'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: Martin Grullich 4/88
Season: Winter
Page Views: 774
Submitted By: Monomaniac on Nov 27, 2006
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Description 

This notorious route offers an excellent, gnarly boulder problem crux right off the ground, followed by 60 feet of excellent 11- cranking. Unfortunately the route seems doomed to (relative) obscurity due to its desparate appearance. However, if you're a bouldering type, this route will be an easy tick, and its all there, despite rumors that the crux is V6.

You want to start a bit right of the bolt line and make an ascending traverse to the left, using sidepulls, underclings, a mono (RH) and even some straight down crimps. You may need to dyno once or twice, but once you reach the 2nd bolt you're home free. A stick clip (or crash pad) should be considered mandatory, or set up a TR as described below.

Many folks enjoy the upper 5.11- section by lowering into it after climbing to the Magic Light anchors. This approach is highly recommended if you're not into the crimpfest. Just lower to the 2nd bolt and crank away. The rope hangs straight down over this route from the Magic Light anchor, so no need to clip intermediate bolts or anything like that.


Location 

This route is just right of the large juniper tree at the base of Morning Glory Wall. It can be easily identified by the utter lack of holds near the ground. Or, its the next line left of Magic Light.


Protection 

Bolts



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