|Lower Security Risk
This is the first bolted climb when you get to Lower Security Risk. When you first get to the base of the rock, head to the right hand side and there will be a bolted arete. The climbing is good until you can reach the arete, then it is a little confusing what was intended. It would be easiest to just pull around the arete and continue up easy climbing to the anchor, but the bolts keep you on the arete for about ten feet longer to the last bolt. Then go left around the arete and run it out on easy terrain to the anchor. It is also possible to stay on the face, but the last bolt is hard to clip and the top is dirty.
5 bolts and a two bolt anchor.
Nov 10, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unfortunately doesn't climb as nice as it looks. Easy start, hard to avoid the dihedral on the right, which makes you feel kind of dirty. Good crux, but the sharp pinky lock with marginal feet is a little tense. As with a lot of GH routes, the bolt placement above the crux is ridiculously reachy. Actually it isn't even reachy - you have to leave a really good stance for some tweaky moves and a screwed up clip. This really detracted from the route in my opinion.
The climbing above is unclear. I moved left to the arete, which seemed the most natural thing to do but couldn't figure out how to clip the last bolt and had to skip it. Not sure if you are supposed to go into the licheny flared crack on the right(?).
I almost gave this route a bomb, but the crux was pretty cool.