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The Elephant Head (& Hyperion Slab)
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YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1999 -Savage
Season: 4
Page Views: 1,132
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Reaching the hole on "Endymion." For those of shor...


Holds are thin getting up the first 30 feet. Once you pass the 3rd bolt the rating drops from 5.9 to 5.2 the rest of the way. Belay at about 80ft for the harder sport climb. 2nd pitch is a 5.2 romp up the ridge to the summit for a full rope length.


Left side of Hyperion Slab.


Quickdraws, bolted

Photos of Endymion Slideshow Add Photo
Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
The hardware on "Endymion."
The hardware on "Endymion."
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By Spider Savage
Apr 10, 2010

Upgraded from 5.9 to 5.10b. The first time you climb it it can be hard. Especially for shorter people. There are a couple of long reaches that are easier for me at 6'1" that require the full wingspan.

By J.J
Mar 27, 2011

At 6'0" I can just barely clip the bolt at the crux before fully commiting. It's a fun climb, but the crux clip isn't exactly optimal.

Edit: I guess this comment belongs to Aenea

By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The 1st three bolts on "Endymion" are spinners, but the one that counts at the crux is solid. Protection consists of 5 bolts & a 2-bolt anchor with large screwlinks.

By Dwook
Feb 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

I am 6'4 and the move felt like an easy 5.10. However, when my girlfriend, who is 5'6, tried this she struggled to reach the handhold making it much harder for her.