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The Elephant's Head (& Hyperion Slab)
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YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: 1999 -Savage
Season: 4
Page Views: 1,490
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Reaching the hole on "Endymion." For tho...


Holds are thin getting up the first 30 feet. Once you pass the 3rd bolt the rating drops from 5.9 to 5.2 the rest of the way. Belay at about 80ft for the harder sport climb. 2nd pitch is a 5.2 romp up the ridge to the summit for a full rope length.


Left side of Hyperion Slab.


Quickdraws, bolted

Photos of Endymion Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The end of another fine day, from the base of &quo...
The end of another fine day, from the base of &quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: The hardware on "Endymion."
The hardware on "Endymion."
Rock Climbing Photo: Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
Rock Climbing Photo: Rappelling over the overhang on "Endymion.&qu...
Rappelling over the overhang on "Endymion.&qu...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cruxing on Endymion.
Cruxing on Endymion.

Comments on Endymion Add Comment
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By Spider Savage
Apr 10, 2010

Upgraded from 5.9 to 5.10b. The first time you climb it it can be hard. Especially for shorter people. There are a couple of long reaches that are easier for me at 6'1" that require the full wingspan.
By J.J
Mar 27, 2011

At 6'0" I can just barely clip the bolt at the crux before fully commiting. It's a fun climb, but the crux clip isn't exactly optimal.

Edit: I guess this comment belongs to Aenea
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The 1st three bolts on "Endymion" are spinners, but the one that counts at the crux is solid. Protection consists of 5 bolts & a 2-bolt anchor with large screwlinks.
By Dwook
Feb 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I am 6'4 and the move felt like an easy 5.10. However, when my girlfriend, who is 5'6, tried this she struggled to reach the handhold making it much harder for her.
By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

1) The first bolt was solid when I climbed it this weekend. 2 & 3 were spinners, but the terrain was easy. The crux bolt is solid so I felt safe pulling the crux. The crux is very height dependent and clipping the crux bolt will be hard for anyone 5'6" or under.

2) The crux is very height dependent (but fun). I'm 6'1" and pulled through just fine. My 5'2" partner struggled a lot more and found the route much more burly. I'f you're tall the rating is more like 5.9. Crux was fun though.

Overall the routes a great and more challenging way to get to the easyslabs and summit above.

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