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Endymion 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: 1999 -Savage
Season: 4
Page Views: 1,211
Submitted By: Spider Savage on Jan 6, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Reaching the hole on "Endymion." For tho...

Description 

Holds are thin getting up the first 30 feet. Once you pass the 3rd bolt the rating drops from 5.9 to 5.2 the rest of the way. Belay at about 80ft for the harder sport climb. 2nd pitch is a 5.2 romp up the ridge to the summit for a full rope length.

Location 

Left side of Hyperion Slab.

Protection 

Quickdraws, bolted


Photos of Endymion Slideshow Add Photo
Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
Trevor pulling the crux on Endymion
The hardware on "Endymion."
The hardware on "Endymion."

Comments on Endymion Add Comment
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By Spider Savage
Apr 10, 2010

Upgraded from 5.9 to 5.10b. The first time you climb it it can be hard. Especially for shorter people. There are a couple of long reaches that are easier for me at 6'1" that require the full wingspan.
By J.J
Mar 27, 2011

At 6'0" I can just barely clip the bolt at the crux before fully commiting. It's a fun climb, but the crux clip isn't exactly optimal.

Edit: I guess this comment belongs to Aenea
By Benjamin Chapman
From: Small Town, USA
Dec 28, 2011
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

The 1st three bolts on "Endymion" are spinners, but the one that counts at the crux is solid. Protection consists of 5 bolts & a 2-bolt anchor with large screwlinks.
By Dwook
Feb 3, 2012
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

I am 6'4 and the move felt like an easy 5.10. However, when my girlfriend, who is 5'6, tried this she struggled to reach the handhold making it much harder for her.
By Jim H
From: Pasadena, CA
Apr 21, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

1) The first bolt was solid when I climbed it this weekend. 2 & 3 were spinners, but the terrain was easy. The crux bolt is solid so I felt safe pulling the crux. The crux is very height dependent and clipping the crux bolt will be hard for anyone 5'6" or under.

2) The crux is very height dependent (but fun). I'm 6'1" and pulled through just fine. My 5'2" partner struggled a lot more and found the route much more burly. I'f you're tall the rating is more like 5.9. Crux was fun though.

Overall the routes a great and more challenging way to get to the easyslabs and summit above.