Enduro Man's Longest Hangout
||Trad, 3 pitches, 230', Grade II
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]|
|FA: ||John Bragg and Doug Strickholm (1980) P2: The Johns Stannard and Bragg (1975) P3: Bragg, Mark Robinson and Bob Murray (1978)|
|Page Views: ||3,259|
|Submitted By: ||Evan Stevens on Oct 15, 2011|
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|Seasonal Raptor Closure from Moondance to After the Prick MORE INFO >>>|
One of the best mini multi-pitch 'hard-person' routes. It is stellar from the word go.
P1. 5.11+ R. Spicy, hard crux-y face climbing pretty straight off the deck with a spindly tree directly behind you (to escape to, or stem off of!). After 25-30' you join the standard first pitch of Directissima
. You can start on that route if you are spooked by the hard-to-protect first 30'. We didn't stop to belay, just linked it into the 'Ridiculissima pitch (beta on this site.)
P2 5.11+ 70'. Start the same as High E
but step a foot or two left and up to an easy stance. Pull through the roofs, then traverse right a body length or two, and then straight up and over to the top.
Descent: rappel the High E
bolts to climber's right.
Standard gunks rack. Double small and medium cams, single set of hand sized gear, slings, nuts, etc...
By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
May 8, 2012
Perhaps the best route (certainly one of the wildest) of the approximately 150 I've done so far at the Gunks. The P1 crux protects reasonably well with an RP . It does take some dicking around to get it in. However, it's probably best to make the moves and avoid testing it. P2 is fun and well protected. P3 is freaking awesome; hard and committing with an opportunity for some big air.