Endless Wall Rock Climbing
Endless Wall. Fall view from Kaymoor. October, 200...
This is the crown jewel of all the crags on the New River. With almost 5 miles of unbroken cliff, breathtaking views, and as much exposure as you can get on a single pitch off the ground, it's easy to spend several days in a row here. There is everything from monster 100 foot bolted moderates to classic gear lines to downright nasty beasts that require you to be a mutant to climb them. Routes range from 50 to over 100 feet in length. Sun and shade can be found, along with a few select rainy day options- most of those require considerable skill, however.
Since the Endless Wall Trail has been voted number 1 hiking trail in a national park in the US it's getting a lot of traffic. With this traffic comes more issues. Especially parking. If you park along the road and your tires are touching the asphalt then you will get towed!
Take second right after bridge (heading north). Park at Fern Point trail head (bottom of hill about 1 mi. from road) or up at the Nuttall parking at the top of the hill past the Fern parking.
If you park at the Fern Point trail head you will hike in through the hemlock forest and cross a bridge (fern creek), go up hill and then come to a sign for climber's access on your right. Take that trail on the right and go down the ladders. This is Fern Point. Head left instead of right, follow the trail and the scenic views to reach the Honeymooner's ladder.
From the Nuttall parking you will walk through the hemlock forest, cross the bridge (fern creek), and then head up a hill. Eventually you will see a sign on the left side of the trail for climbing access. Take that trail and down the ladders to go to the Cirque.
Between the Fern Point and Cirque ladders is another set, the Honeymooner's ladders. Going down this set of ladders puts you dead in the middle of Endless wall at Snake Buttress.
From Fern Point to the Cirque is below. Climbers left to right.
Fern Point (ladder)
Fern Point - Party Buttress
Flash Point Area
Snake Buttress (ladder)
Scream Seam Area
Dr. Ruth's Big Buttress
The Undeserved Area
Jacob's Ladder Area
The Mungolian Wall
Weather station 5.2 miles from here
198 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',49],['3 Stars',83],['2 Stars',51],['1 Star',12],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Endless Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Endless Wall
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Endless Wall:
Featured Route For Endless Wall
Fantasy 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c WV
: The New River Gorge
: ... : Fantasy Area
The obvious hand crack that heads straight up the Fantasy roof area.15 feet of semi-awkward face and crack climbing leads to a nice long splitter with bomber jams, great rest stances and good holds both in and out of the crack.A second pitch, if you want to top out (usually dirty from runoff) moves up and right from the comfy ledge below the bolted anchor and goes at roughly 5.5....[more] Browse More Classics in WV
By Matthew Carpenter
Apr 3, 2015
Endless wall is choss! It's not as big as they say it is, the rock is soft, the grades are soft, the climbs lack any sort thought-provoking movement. The routes are ugly and the rock is unaesthetic. The weather is gross and it's always crowded. Hikers throw their garbage down at you, and the locals...well they're a bunch of gumbyheaded ninnywaggers. Go to the Red instead, that's the only good spot in the whole region!
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 3, 2015
I completely and wholeheartedly support this statement! Thank you Matt for saying publicly what everyone knows to be true. The last sentence is particularly pertinent, and is the most solid advice I have ever heard and should be adhered to strictly.
By Zach Buecker
From: Lander, WY
Oct 27, 2015
If the lots are full do not park on the shoulder of Lansing-Edmond Rd. Last Saturday cars were being towed. Park at another lot or see Matt's comment above...
By Chris Whisenhunt
From: Fayetteville, WV
Oct 27, 2015
Yeah I was out there watching it, I think it was mostly hikers. You can park anywhere as long as your tires are not on the asphalt.