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Tormented Lesbian, The 

Endless Torment 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 120'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Jonathan and Alison Smoot
Page Views: 2,462
Submitted By: Louis Arevalo on Jul 15, 2003
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Running low on chalk early, I eye the distance up.
Do not cross the pipe by the pumphouse. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

To the left of Pentapitch, the route is rarely occupied.

Getting to the first bolt after slotting a nut or two and sinking a tcu to begin the leftward movement puts you on your toes. Sidepulls and smears get you to the first-pitch belay. The second pitch is a bit harder but is protected well with 2 bolts and a old pin.


Protection 

Handful of tcu's and a few draws



Photos of Endless Torment Slideshow Add Photo
I swear, half the time on the rock, I am chalking up.
I swear, half the time on the rock, I am chalking ...
This would be the line, from the midway belay, to do the Endless Seagull variation (5.10b crux followed by 5.10d crux).  Although, I felt more like 5.11a.
This would be the line, from the midway belay, to ...
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By Anonymous Coward
Jul 19, 2004

did this route the other day, wonderful climb! What is the bolted line starting just right and shares the end section of Torment? Used HB's in several locations, considered them more bomber than tcu's in a couple of spots.

By Nathan Fisher
Jul 2, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Great route with a bit of variety, some spicy protection, and delicate moves. I got off route and did the (Endless Seagull?) variation. After the 5.10b crux, I wandered left on to Lesbian Seagulls, and did that 5.10d d-d-d-delicate move, past the two bolts.

By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Oct 20, 2005
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b

Good to do both pitches in one lead, as there are no chains at the first belay, and it is otherwise a bit short. It is possible to get down from the top with one rope (with rope stretch! so tie a not) and you wind up just behind the tree at the bottom. From the first set of anchors, I climbed up through two bolts and traversed right across the face to the undercling. A bit run out on thin moves, but very exciting!

By Tea
May 16, 2007

A must do pitch on the circuit. Too bad it now sports a poorly located bolt down low, placed by some total nutsack not involved in the FA. Great full pitch.

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Jun 13, 2008

That bolt is useless, there's pro 6" from it.
The climbing is really fun and quite technical, especially for the 9+ given in the book for the first part. The slaby moves to get to the first belay feel quite spicy since your last micro is a ways down.
I'll be back to do the second half

By Perin Blanchard
Administrator
From: Orem, UT
Jul 3, 2009

A 70m rope gets you down in one rap.

By triznuty
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 20, 2009

First pitch is good in its own right. A better description of the second pitch would be nice too.

By Tim Wolfe
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jul 22, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b PG13

Wonderful line - classic LLC slab and thin lie off climb. Why it took me nearly 30 years to do this is unclear. The route combines the need for gear placement skills with thin slab technique and has a nice little runnout near the top (why would anyone stop at the chains - do the whole pitch for the full experience). As for the question above regarding the upper part of the climb - climb past the midway bolts to a short lie back straight above (good gear), clip the bolt, climb up and right on slab to the left facing shallow corner, clip a bolt, climb up to a pin and then back to the belay chains.

By Spencer Weiler
From: SLC, UT
Aug 7, 2011

Not for the faint of heart. The first pitch has good gear up until a spicy traverse right to the belay chains has you at least 10 feet above your last placement. The 2nd pitch looks sparse to get to the first bolt but a .3 camalot crack appears in the short dihedral. Clip the first bolt, then run it out on thin slab to the 2nd thin dihedral with NO GEAR! Luckily it gets easier once you hit the dihedral and the 2nd bolt appears after you land your foot on a huge jug. This is a 20 foot stretch above that last bolt. Clip the 3rd fixed piece, a pin, and its over. Basically bring 3 draws and a .3 camalot for this pitch. Yikes.