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Lower East Face
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Alexander's Chimney T 
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Endless Summer 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: The first six pitches done in 1991 by Greg Davis and Todd Bibler, ending 150 feet below Broadway. Roger Briggs & Chip Chace added the last pitch
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 823
Submitted By: Bob Rotert on Jul 24, 2007

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Description 

P1 Start from Mills Glacier in a series of right-facing corners, below the left end of the big wet arches. Move up and left to a splitter crack up the center of a small pinnacle. Belay at a small stance at its top. A bolt would be nice here. 5.10-.

P2 Follow the obvious seams up and right. Fixed copperheads, pins, and a few bolts mark the way. 2-bolt belay. 5.11b.

P3 Traverse right, then up, then right, then up, aiming for small corners. Some wet streaks will be crossed. End with a wet corner to a 2-bolt belay. 5.10.

P4 Follow the easiest line, mostly straight up, to a large area of 2nd class ledges. Belay below the left facing system of corners above. 5.8 - 5.9.

P5 Move up the left facing corners past several fixed pins to a 2-bolt belay. 5.11b (R).

P6 Go straight up, passing the cool crescent arch, to a 2-bolt belay. 5.11b.

P7 One green Camalot is the largest piece you need (or can place) on this pitch. Climb up past an old bolt then move left with gear under the overlap flakes. The technical crux is here, moving up and left to a good crack (5.12-). Follow the crack until it ends (5.9) then pass two bolts (5.11). Run it out to a fixed Alien (5.11c), then move right. Run it out (5.11a) to a nice crack that ends on Broadway with a 2-bolt belay.

Descend from these anchors with 3 raps to the big ledges. Then scramble (belay suggested) 100 feet down and north to 2-bolt anchor, then do 3 more raps to Mills Glacier. Its very easy to descend from any of the last three pitches of the climb because the belay bolts are also the rap anchors.


Location 

The lower half of the climb starts left of, and stays above, the huge wet arches that dominate the lower wall.


Protection 

Rack: Wires: #2 micro large stoppers. One set.
Aliens (or equivalent): 3 x purple, 3 x blue, 3 x green, 2 x yellow.
Camalots (or equivalent): 2 x purple, 2 x green, 2 x red, 1 x yellow, 1 x blue.



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By Stefan Griebel
Aug 16, 2010

P7 is rumored to have not yet seen a 2nd ascent. I headed up there to give it a try (unsuccessfully) on 8/7/2010, but certainly had an adventure. Pitch breakdown, ratings and description (by Bob Rotert) are spot on, although he underplays the severity of this climb. Scope out the wetness situation before heading up. If there is a lot of water everywhere, I would recommend choosing a different route.

P1 definitely needs a bolt for an anchor. An old pin and tiny nut are a bit scary. Backed up by a cam at your feet. If I attempt this route again, I will definitely put in an anchor there.

P2 sees runouts of 5-8' above a fixed copperhead, which is 5-8' above another fixed head, which is 5-8' above a decent pin, but a pin nonetheless. Looking at a 20-40' fall there if the heads rip. PG-13 or R for sure in my mind. Fortunately, the climbing is dry!

P3 is a very serious lead involving lots of traversing across unprotected slabby ramps that were running with water when we were there. 30' sideways from a small alien placement feels R or X to me. The corners were also running with water, and had to be climbed through. This was far and away the most exciting and scary pitch of the day. We also got hit by rockfall while I was belaying from the top of this pitch. Fortunately, nothing really big hit us and the blood didn't drip into my eyes too much.

P4 more wetness, although not as runout or hard as P3.

P5. This pitch is great. Gear is plentiful, rock is mostly good, interesting and challenging moves, belayer is at a comfy ledge. I emptied the whole rack into this pitch, except for the very small stuff (blue/purple Aliens, RPs) All the gear seemed very good, and the fall potential was quite tame compared to P3.

These 5 pitches with the wetness and rockfall had taken us so long that we made the difficult decision to bail from here, even though the next pitch looked to be more of the same high quality, dry rock as P5.

Regarding the rack. The very small stuff must be for P7 as we used nearly zero of it for the lower pitches. I would add a 3rd yellow Alien. Or maybe just take a whole rack of yellow aliens as it seemed that was always the piece I needed and I never had....

Raps are off of big, new bolted anchors, which I assume were installed by Chip and Roger very recently. Thanks, guys!!