|E Crags (DBC Canyon)
|Type: ||Trad, 10 pitches, 1610', Grade III|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross Andy Ross (Var leads) 20th March 2008|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||1,255|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Mar 24, 2008|
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On The Summit .Looking down the southern part of T...
Takes a line between Death by Chocolate and Day of Atonement. A bit of an expedition with fine situations and great views from the summit. Most of the rock is good ,however one or two of the easier pitches are a little flakey.
P1)Enter the groove and at about 140' cam belays. 140'5.5
P2)Continue up the groove passing a pro bolt about 20' above the belay to double anchors at its top. 160' 5.7
P3)Climb 15 feet up to the right to a bolt and fixed biner . Lower off from this about 60' than traverse right to anchors at the start of pitch 4 of Death by Chocolate.
P4) Climb up right to a pro bolt (this has been added as flake seemed unstable for cam placement) above a hollow flake ,up from this to another bolt then right to double anchors (P4 D by C).100'5.8
P5)Do not go up the scoop of D by C traverse up to the right to join a chocolate band of rock passing a bolt at about 130'to double anchors to the right of a small bush. 200' 5.5R
P6)Continue up the slab passing a bolt to double anchors below a groove and crack.200'5.6R.
P7)Climb the groove and continue to double anchors 200' 5.6R.
P8)Straight up and enter slim groove ,step left out of this about 20' below a small roof to double anchors left of the roof.200'5.6R
P9).Continue up the slab to a natural cam belay below some blocks #3.5 and #4 friends.200' 5.6R
P10 Straight up slab left of blocks to the summit groove 150' 5.6R .Register in small cairn.
Descent Go around the corner to the left and along a big ledge then descend a large scoop to the rap anchors at the top of Death By Chocolate. Follow 200' raps to the anchors at the top of the 5.9 pitch 4, then a rap from here reaches the canyon floor.
One can 4th class the slot canyon to the start (see D by C and Day of Atonement descriptions .Or if water in pools at the right side of the entrance scramble up a small gully and look for a way left then right and descend an easy crack .continue up to a ledge with rap anchors. Rap into the canyon and easy walk to the routes. The climb back up the rap is about 100' 5.4
Cams one each from Alien size to #4Friend, slings. Two 60m ropes
Tele photo of the 200' grove at the start of Endle...
Paul on Pitch 8
BETA PHOTO: Blue arrow :- Death by Chocolate 5.9.Red arrow :- ...
Paul on pitch one,the 300'groove
BETA PHOTO: A)red. Death by Chocolate. C). blue. Endless Journ...
Andy topping out pitch 2
Looking down Pitch 8
Andy following Pitch 5
Cowboys herding cattle below the reef slabs.
Paul on Pitch 6
Distant photo of same 200' groove with Scot ringed...
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