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 ADVANCED
Sespe Gorge (Black Wall)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bee Line T 
Boss Man, The T 
Chips Block T 
Edge of Night T 
Ending Crack T 
Glory Days S 
Half Ascent T 
Pipe Cleaner T 
Roadside Cracks T 
Tree Root T 
Wasp/The Sting, The T 
White Spider, The T 

Ending Crack 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 200'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Don Lauria, Dennis Hennek, Tom Ridenour
Season: year round but winter thr
Page Views: 6,527
Submitted By: Davi Rivas on Feb 13, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (45)
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Nate Conroy, Ending Crack

Description 

P1: Follow the striking crack straight up the face to a 2-bolt belay.

P2: Continue up the crack until it peters out, then follow face holds up and right to a shallow face crack to newish 3-bolt anchors.

Walk off to wide gully on the left or rap off anchors via two-rope rappel.

Protection 

Carry pro to 3 inches.


Photos of Ending Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Nate Conroy looks for pro on Ending Crack's first pitch.
Nate Conroy looks for pro on Ending Crack's first ...
Rob Chaney and Tim Lister at The first belay as seen from the ground
Rob Chaney and Tim Lister at The first belay as se...
Nick Mudd below P1
BETA PHOTO: Nick Mudd below P1
This is the two bolt rappel station about 70 ft. up on Ending Crack.  The top bolt is a bit rusty and a spinner.  The lower bolt is in better condition and looks a bit more solid.
BETA PHOTO: This is the two bolt rappel station about 70 ft. u...
Mike Nesbitt of Ventura, all smiles on P1 of Ending Crack - May 2002.
Mike Nesbitt of Ventura, all smiles on P1 of Endin...
Rob Chaney of Ventura belaying Tim Lister of Oxnard as he makes his way up the first pich of Ending Crack
Rob Chaney of Ventura belaying Tim Lister of Oxnar...
Tree Root (right) & Ending Crack (left).
BETA PHOTO: Tree Root (right) & Ending Crack (left).
Looking up Ending Crack
BETA PHOTO: Looking up Ending Crack
Patty Fienup high on the first pitch of Ending Crack.
Patty Fienup high on the first pitch of Ending Cra...
Matt's a Crack Addict after cruisin' up Ending Crack (5.7).
Matt's a Crack Addict after cruisin' up Ending Cra...
Matt "Sharma" Geyer on Ending Crack (5.7) gunning for the anchors before the "pump" sets in.
Matt "Sharma" Geyer on Ending Crack (5.7...
Tim Lister of Oxnard cleans Ending crack
Tim Lister of Oxnard cleans Ending crack
Jeff "boldly" following Ending Crack (5.7). Don't drop anything on me!
Jeff "boldly" following Ending Crack (5....
Zach Margulis and Nick Mudd at P1 belay
BETA PHOTO: Zach Margulis and Nick Mudd at P1 belay
Jeff (again) following Ending Crack (5.7).
Jeff (again) following Ending Crack (5.7).
Looking up P1 of Ending Crack
BETA PHOTO: Looking up P1 of Ending Crack
Topo Showing Ending Crack (5.7) and some of the neighboring climbs. Please let me know if you find changes in anchor locations or bolts so I can update the topo. I don't get the single bolt in the pocket below Wadka. That place seems to be growing bolts!
BETA PHOTO: Topo Showing Ending Crack (5.7) and some of the ne...
Ryan Seltzer Leading - Me following 1st Pitch
Ryan Seltzer Leading - Me following 1st Pitch

Comments on Ending Crack Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Feb 18, 2013
By M.Morley
Administrator
From: Sacramento, CA
Feb 13, 2006

Ending Crack is hands down the best multipitch crack climb on the entire Central Coast. The first pitch is an incredible handcrack that takes gear like nobody's business. The second pitch is a little heads-up. Once the crack ends (yeah, that's why they call it Ending Crack), it's a little tricky to protect. Rap the route w/ 2 ropes. 300'.
By Don Lauria
Feb 24, 2006

Quite frankly, I have no recollection of doing this route. Does anyone know when Dennis and I did it? I guess I could ask Dennis ... he only recently turned 60 and his memory is probably better than mine. Lauria
By Chiranjeeb Buragohain
Feb 26, 2006
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

Did this route yesterday. I found both pitches were of equal difficulty (5.6) and in fact, the second pitch felt a little more insecure because it was hard to protect as Mike Morley mentioned before.
On the second pitch small cams (red alien and smaller) might make the
protection better. The first pitch is great though. This route (first pitch) and Tree Root are great places for trad climbers to start.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Mar 16, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

The first pitch of Ending Crack absolutely swallows passive gear and cams, making this the single best beginner's lead in Ventura and Santa Barbara. As mentioned, the second pitch is anything but.
By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
May 3, 2007

Don Lauria's comment above is a classic. He must not have liked it as much as the rest of us!
By Erik Anderson
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 9, 2007

Thanks for the bolt clean-up! There's no need for any more bolts on Sespe! In fact, I was kind of surprised when the bolted rap stations went in a while back, but I guess they saved the trees.
By Matthew Fienup
Administrator
From: Ventura, CA
Apr 28, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I find it helpful to carry 2 sets of TCUs for the second pitch.
By Brandontyrrell
Apr 14, 2010

take the 1st pitch, its the best one
By Joseph Stover
From: Batesville, AR
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The second pitch (~5.7 maybe +) is definitely harder and headier than the first (~5.6). My partner said the second pitch of ending crack felt more like the first pitch on tree route. Beautiful multi-pitch climb, as both pitches are long. Definitely a must do, and a must repeat.

On P2: I thought there was only about a 10-20 ft section where the pro was really not great. Overall the pro was a bit trickier as well, several spots where you just plug n go possibly mental pro. About 25 ft below the end, where the crack ends, I just traversed right about 5 ft and got into the next crack over which still was not easy to protect initially (I think I threaded a sling through a hole in the rock for mental pro) but probably less scary than runout face. I was wearing new shoes which started hurting so bad, that it added to the intensity of the climb making it really mentally challenging to do with what felt like toes clamped in vice grips.

Also, I don't think my 70m would have made the rappel from the first anchor (which as I understand is not really a belay anchor, however, we had the wall to ourselves, so we just belayed from it with no problems). 2 double rope raps to get to the ground from the top. Didn't do the third pitch.
By William Domhart
From: Ventucky, CA
Feb 18, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

For the 2nd pitch, we did a variation where I moved to the left aiming towards the big tree on the ledge after the crack ended. Had to run it out because the rock quality was pretty bad, but it was fun and spicy. We only had 1 60-m rope, so we descended down the gulley and rapped 15-20 feet to the platform.