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Shirley leading pitch 1 of Endgame (Nov. '07).
An amazing, if unlikely line up the SSW side of the End Pinnacle, around the corner from Days of Future Passed. Great, mostly well-protected and airy climbing with a little bit of everything. The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle. Beware of possible windy conditions and a shady and possibly very chilly first belay under a large boulder.
P1: Start on the slab under the boulder to a small ledge and out to the left to a sickle shape feature and up steep face climbing on alligator skin to a two-bolt belay (rap anchors). Very well bolted. 5.10a, 150'.
P2: Climb the face up and right to a single bolt. You will see a two-bolt belay above and left of this (for Poetry in Motion), but this is NOT where you are heading. Continue right to the buttress and climb the line of bolts. The traverse right to the arete is run-out and the single bolt is piss-poor but the climbing is easy. Once on the arete, the route is well-bolted. Belay off two rap anchors in a kind of alcove. 5.8R, 150'.
P3: Just above the belay, follow the bolted seam up and to the right. A 3/4" cam is necessary here. Exposed! 5.10a, 130'.
P4: Up the steep slab past two bolts to a large ledge with a 2-bolt anchor on the left side.
P5: Move the belay to the right side (for Days of Future Passed) and then traverse right around the corner and up a steep slab, following bolts to the top. 5.8+, 100'.
Descent: 3 rappels. Complicated. Move east and slightly south below the summit area to a small pine tree with rap slings. Rap 150' (2 ropes) to a set of bolts. Another 2-rope rappel into a dark chimney. Scramble north along the chimney to a hole by a chockstone, squeeze through the hole onto a ledge. Rap off a slings around a wedged chockstone to the ground on the NE side of the pinnacle.
The start is under a house-sized boulder which leans against the End Pinnacle.
For approach from the west side of the Stronghold, see my comments for the approach to Rockfellow formation.
2 ropes, 15-20 quickdraws, wires, TCUs, small to med cams, slings
My wife lowering me (low in photo, behind trees) &...
Maite Guardiola strolling up the 4th pitch of Endg...
Erica Biggio topping out the 3rd pitch of Engame i...
On the first pitch
Fun old times!!! Herman and Aleix
Summit of End Pinnacle, back in '06... Herman, Lui...
Two Climbers on the second pitch of End Game. Phot...
The cold, yet very high quality 1st pitch
Midway on the 1st pitch
Intimidating appearing start.
From: Altadena, CA
Dec 26, 2006
One linkup that has been suggested (and looked like a lot of fun) is, instead of busting out right on pitch three, keep following the bolts for Welcome to the Machine (straight up the groove from the alcove), then rejoin Endgame after the fourth pitch of that route. Also, people who had done both the original Days of Future Passed finish and also the Endgame finish to that route unanimously recommended the latter. The 5.8R climbing on Days was, according to them, not worth the additional risk and not as much fun as the last Endgame pitch.
Mar 31, 2007
The reason to do the original finish to is exactly because it is the original finish. If you've climbed the rest of the route the 5.8 R bit on the last pitch should not be that much of a challenge!!
From: Tucson, Az
Sep 3, 2008
There are bolts at every rap station now.
|By Chris Wenker|
From: Santa Fe
Sep 22, 2008
P4 is ~5.8 and has 5 bolts, not two, plus an optional 6th near the lip of the ledge that could serve as a directional before you traverse to the anchor on the right side of the ledge.
And then there's yet another bolt on the ledge farther left, and, um, yeah, well, lots of bolts all over this dome.
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 16, 2008
A topo for this climb can be downloaded by clicking this link:
Note that this topo is for the west face of end pinnacle. After the third pitch, Endgame continues on the southwest face. For this reason, the rest of the topo (pitches 4 & 5) can be found on this topo:
|By 1Eric Rhicard|
Nov 2, 2008
Two variations to this route that were chopped years ago have been rebolted. The bolts are beefy Fixe hangers so if you want to stay on the original route don't use them.
Variation 1 5.11+: About 5 or 6 bolts up from the start of the climb along the hand traverse, a line of Fixe bolt hangers go straight up a very blank section of face to the first belay of Welcome to the Machine.
Variation 2 5.10+: On the third pitch as the climbing begins to ease up is a shallow dihedral that heads up the steep headwall. Climb this until possible to finish on Welcome to the Machine. The 20 feet of 5.7 is a tad less exciting if you bring a couple of hand sized cams to plug in at the top of Welcome... or if you want a mental challenge move right at the last bolt and finish on Great Gig In The Sky which is about 5.7 to the ledge also.
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2008
I checked out the variations the other day, and they are a lot of fun. The upper variation makes for a stellar way to do pitches 3&4 of Endgame.
Jan 14, 2009
I did this route with Miles "bigwall" Kunkel. "Bigwall" because this is the longest route he's ever done. He made a mockery of it, not only skipping the gear on pitch 3, but skipping most of the bolts on both pitches 1 and 3.
Me: Why did you skip all those bolts ?
Miles: Didn't see 'em. (said with a sly half-smile)
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Nov 13, 2009
rating: 5.10b PG13
P1: Stay left.
P2: Runout 5.8 climbing
P3: Awesome. Stay Low
P4: Climbed in November. Was in the shade until P4.
P5: More difficult than 5.8+ when in the sun.
|By Dustin Urban|
Nov 20, 2009
Killer route. Really fun. Make sure to bring enough draws. The first pitch had 15 to 18 of em i think. We used 2 pieces of pro all day, our rack was excessive- you could easily just bring quick draws and runners.
|By Justin York|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 23, 2009
Linked engame and welcome to the machine (WTTM) for a 4 star route that, IMHO, is better than the individual routes by themselves. P1&2 of endgame, P3&4 of WTTM, finish on P5 of endgame. Awesome!
From: Tucson, AZ
Nov 23, 2009
Try the upper variation to Endgame off its third pitch. In my opinion it's the best pitch on the wall. Very exposed and stellar climbing!
|By Luke Bertelsen|
Oct 31, 2010
Climbed this yesterday. WONDERFUL!!!!! If you are looking to lighten up on the rack I suggest just draws and no gear. We carried the suggested rack and placed one nut on the entire climb and then saw that there was a bolt not too far away.
|By Clay Mansfield|
Dec 11, 2010
It may be helpful to some to know that the rappels for Endgame (and End Pinnacle in general), can be done with one 70 m rope.
My partner and I had heard it could be done, but we took 2 ropes to the base anyways. Once there, we were told by 2 guys who had done Endgame recently that one 70 m rope would work, and it did. I'm guessing the 2 intermediate anchors that we had to use (both 2 rap bolts) are relatively new.
If you want to rap off End Pinnacle with one 70 m rope, this may help:
(1)Rap off the 2 bolt anchor near the pine tree on the summit. As you drop onto the vertical face, start looking down and to your left for a set of rap bolts just outside small chimney
(2)Rap down and right to an anchor that is still above the large chimney.
(3)Rap down into large chimney until you get to an anchor that will be on the south side of the chimney (your left). These are easy to miss if you're not looking for them.
(4)Rap from this anchor down the chimney towards the "hole")
(5)Make one move up and scramble out hole to last rappel anchor and rap from here. At the bottom of this rappel, swing over to your left to get to solid rock you can stand on. Easy downclimb from here.
It is a trade off for sure. We only had one rope climbing up, which of course was nice, but had to do 5 rappels, rather than 3.
|By Catherine Conner|
From: Phoenix, AZ
Nov 1, 2011
Just did this beauty for the first time-thought it was so fun. And can confirm exactly what Clay says above about rapping off the back with a 70m as described. Look forward to doing this one again!
|By Guy H.|
From: Fort Collins CO
Nov 18, 2012
It is possible to rap back down to your packs with two ropes. We had a 63M static & a 70M.
Make 2 two single rope raps from the summit to the P3 belay. You might be able to do these with a 60M. We used a 70M, with low potential for stuck ropes. Then make two double rope raps using the Jimmywacky P1 anchors. (50M and 61M) There are potential rope issues, so think about how you pull your ropes and scope out the chicken heads on the way down!
I only placed a #0.75, #1, and a large offset nut on P2.
Nov 19, 2012
Is it possible to do the first three pitchs and then rap?
Nov 20, 2012
This is a sport route that has absolutely no need for any gear other than quickdraws. All runouts are on super easy terrain. Great route though. Great exposure and climbing on pitch 3!