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Endeavour 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin, November 6, 1971
Page Views: 3,739
Submitted By: cjdrover on Aug 9, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (26)
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BETA PHOTO: Endeavour, 5.7, White's Ledge

Description 

(Updated 6/4/14 - pitch numbers correlate to the Webster guidebook, with recommended pitches to link indicated.)

P1+2: From the "toe" of the cliff, hike 15 or 20 feet left and climb up a moderate corner. There will be a large ledge to your right - continue straight up aiming for the huge tree. Belay from the tree. (>100 feet, 5.7ish)

P3: Climb up and slightly to the right toward the next big tree, passing a few pins. The steep bulge is best climbed on the left up the vertical weakness. Probably the crux of the route. Belay from the tree.

P4+5: Follow easy slab up about 30 feet from the belay, than diagonal hard right following intricate and hidden features across the increasingly exposed slab. Keen routefinding will be required to maintain the grade and find gear, but it does go at about 5.6 PG. After about 40 feet of climbing up to the right (passing a flake and a groove that some mistake for the crack) you will suddenly stumble on a an absolutely splitter 5.5 hand crack. Follow it until you run out of rope or reach a convenient belay.

P6: Continue up the crack until it ends, then head right to a tree ledge OR escape into the trees on the left. It is possible to rappel from here following a line of anchors to the left of the route.

P7: Keep scrambling up easy ground until you reach a bushy gully that takes you to the summit. Walk off to the climber's right via the trail, 2 miles to the trailhead.

There are also some bolted face climbs on short walls in the woods if you escape left after Pitch 6.

Location 

From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).

For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses (take the trail heading to the climber's right).

Equipment 

Standard NE rack, with perhaps some extra hand-sized cams. Rappelling will probably require two ropes, or you can just walk off.


Photos of Endeavour Slideshow Add Photo
Butt shot of Pitch 5, such a sweet crack in a well featured slab!
Butt shot of Pitch 5, such a sweet crack in a well...
Bartram on the end of P2
Bartram on the end of P2
The awesome slab hand crack up high. Very fun to do in one pitch if you have a 70M or some simul climbing skills.
The awesome slab hand crack up high. Very fun to d...
Endeavour, pitch one
Endeavour, pitch one
The view looking back towards North Conway from P2 anchors
The view looking back towards North Conway from P2...
Last pitch on Endeavor
Last pitch on Endeavor

Comments on Endeavour Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

There is a nice 10a variation to the traditional second pitch. From the left side of the ledge at the end of pitch 1, move up the steepening wall clipping 3 bolts as you go then cut back right to join the second pitch. I think that it is a paul cormier variation. nice climbing.
By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Fun route on good rock. Four stars is pushing it.. There's about 350 feet of climbing with another 200 feet of scrambling. A 60m rope will get it done in three roped pitches, the third being a rope-stretcher, otherwise you can build a belay in the crack. Scramble the last 200 feet to the summit. You can either rappel or take the trail off the summit back to the parking area (1.4 miles). Route is grade II IMO
By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

After climbing this route today I have a couple thoughts. First I would highly recommend running (guidebook) pitches 1 + 2 together. Secondly I think that the rap stations could use some bolts, the trees are starting to look a little suspect. One the 3rd (guidebook) pitch stay truer to the arete and have some wild exposure and fun steep moves. I highly recommend this climb to everyone with good route finding skills, so much fun. Also bring 2 ropes and rappel at the end of the cracked slab (P5), the walk off looks nasty and long, rapping is 3, 60 meter raps and a huge time saver.
By chuckdrew
Jul 8, 2013

Fun route on relatively good rock. Route finding was a bit tricky. We did it in 3 pitches with a single 70 meter rope. An extra #1 and #2 Camalot would have been handy for the last pitch.

We changed into our approach shoes at the last rap station and scrambled up to the top of the mountain. The top of the mountain has a lovely view of the area and is covered with wild blueberries and rasberries, which made for a nice snack on a hot July day!
By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Feb 4, 2014

This is just a great little route in a sunny and quiet place. The upper pitches following the crack are dead easy and way beyond delightful. And if you want a gorgeous view, hike up the 300' to the top of the cliff; it's well worth it and the hiking trail down is beautiful.
By Ryan Howes
From: Mount Vernon, ME
Jun 2, 2014

Climbed Endeavor yesterday with a guest of Synnott Mountain Guides. This was a first for the both of us. I found the current guidebook GPS coordinates to be helpful for locating the trailhead cairn. We climbed the traditional five pitches on a 60m single rope, and rappelled using a tagline from my pack using all three fixed tree stations to the ground. The rappels were clean and no hang ups for the tagline. Each station had double rings and plenty of cord and slings, some old, some new. Trees are plenty bomber for the job they are doing, but bolt stations may be necessary in the near future for the top two rappels. If I go back with the intention of climbing to the summit, a 70 meter rope would do the job if needing to bail. Five to six rappels and a bit of meandering would do it. Quality moderate route without the crowd. Reminds me of Acadian Granite.
By Josh Z
From: Boston, MA
Jun 16, 2014

Did this two days ago. The black flies were vicious (they're out in force in June), and I have about 50 bites on my face and neck. It had rained the day before, and some of the easier, friction-dependent parts of the route were wet. Scrambling up to the summit and hiking off was fun and well worth it.
This route is not sustained, but it is PG or PG-13 (a little runout) in several places, and route-finding is no joke. On pitch 2 (as described here; it's pitch 3 in the Handren guidebook), there are two "weaknesses" you can climb up through. Take the left one even though it looks harder; the right one looks easier but involves basically swimming through 10' of dirt and dangerously loose rock.
By Silas Miller
From: Harpswell, ME
Aug 12, 2014

I want to climb Endeavor in the next couple of weeks and I want to know if anyone has rapped off the top with ONE rope? I know the new book calls for two, but I feel there is a way to hike a few feet off the top to the left, rap off a tree and hit the middle tree belay with a 70m rope. Just wondering if anyone has tried this? The middle rap look short enough and the bottom one looks like you could swing out left and hit the slope or another small tree. I try to avoid bringing two ropes whenever possible...
By JD1984
From: Worcester, MA
Aug 12, 2014

I recently climbed Endeavor with a single 70m rope and I cannot recommend trying to rap with just that. The tree in the center of the climb is small, dead and worn halfway thru and cannot be trusted as a rap anchor. If hiking down is not an option I would have the second trail an additional rope just for the rap. Double ropes get you down real quick and leave plenty of time to sample the excellent single pitch routes at the bottom.
By RyderS
From: Boston, MA
Aug 13, 2014

A nice "lost in the woods" climb. The climbing was fun, but I don't think it was anything to write home about. Definitely a niche route for taking newer folks who want to sample what a slightly higher commitment level is in multipitch but might not be ready for a big, exposed commitment like Cannon. The approach is a bit ambiguous, with spotty cairns in the woods as you approach the wall, so keep your eyes open.

Some thoughts:
- P1 does have some runouts, but gear placements seem to appear right on time. Just be cool.
- The final pitch does get some nice exposure transitioning across the face and into the hand crack.
- Rapping this route definitely requires double 60s, but the tat 'anchors' look a bit dubious. But with some dirtaneering, you can forage your way from the top out up to the summit of Mt. Stanton and have a nice view back towards North Conway and the Mt. Washington Valley. Easy jaunt back down the trail to Rick's Rd.

All in all, a nice, fairly mellow outing that can be a nice alternative when the classic crags like Whitehorse and Cathedral are packed.