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White's Ledge
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Endeavour 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 550', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Joe Cote & Roger Martin, November 6, 1971
Page Views: 2,712
Submitted By: cjdrover on Aug 9, 2009
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Bartram on the end of P2

Description 

There are probably several ways to pitch this out - what follows is one way. The pitch numbers indicate how the guide book lists them.

P1+2: From the "toe" of the cliff, hike 15 or 20 feet left and climb up a moderate corner. There will be a large ledge to your right - continue straight up aiming for the huge tree. Belay from the tree. (>100 feet)

P3: Climb up and slightly to the right toward the next big tree. The steep bulge is best climbed on the left up the vertical weakness. Probably the crux of the route. Belay from the tree.

P4+5: Follow easy ground up and fairly far to the right. When you reach the spectacular 5.5 hands crack go straight up. The exposure on this pitch makes the whole climb worth it. Belay when convenient in the crack. Gaining the crack is the routefinding crux.

P6: Continue up the crack until it ends, then head right to a tree ledge OR escape into the trees on the left.

P7: Keep heading up on easy ground until you reach a bushy gully that takes you to the summit. Walk off via the trail.

There are also some bolted routes on faces in the woods if you escape left after Pitch 6.


Location 

From the "toe" of White's Ledge, look ~20 feet to left for the obvious weakness leading to a small ledge with a small tree (more of a bush).

For descent, take the trail from Mt. Stanton back down to the road/houses.


Protection 

Standard NE rack. Some tricky sections that could prove difficult if the route is near your limit, otherwise its faster and easier to just run it out a little.



Photos of Endeavour Slideshow Add Photo
Butt shot of Pitch 5, such a sweet crack in a well featured slab!
Butt shot of Pitch 5, such a sweet crack in a well...
Endeavour, 5.7, White's Ledge
BETA PHOTO: Endeavour, 5.7, White's Ledge
The awesome slab hand crack up high. Very fun to do in one pitch if you have a 70M or some simul climbing skills.
The awesome slab hand crack up high. Very fun to d...
The view looking back towards North Conway from P2 anchors
The view looking back towards North Conway from P2...
Endeavour, pitch one
Endeavour, pitch one
Comments on Endeavour Add Comment
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By nhclimber
From: Newmarket, NH
Aug 17, 2009
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

There is a nice 10a variation to the traditional second pitch. From the left side of the ledge at the end of pitch 1, move up the steepening wall clipping 3 bolts as you go then cut back right to join the second pitch. I think that it is a paul cormier variation. nice climbing.

By Adam Winters
Administrator
From: the Shire
Apr 3, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

Fun route on good rock. There's about 350 feet of climbing with another 200 feet of scrambling. A 60m rope will get it done in three roped pitches, the third being a rope-stretcher, otherwise you can build a belay in the crack. Scramble the last 200 feet to the summit. You can either rappel or take the trail off the summit back to the parking area (1.4 miles). Route is grade II IMO

By matthewWallace
From: plymouth, nh
Apr 21, 2013
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

After climbing this route today I have a couple thoughts. First I would highly recommend running (guidebook) pitches 1 + 2 together. Secondly I think that the rap stations could use some bolts, the trees are starting to look a little suspect. One the 3rd (guidebook) pitch stay truer to the arete and have some wild exposure and fun steep moves. I highly recommend this climb to everyone with good route finding skills, so much fun. Also bring 2 ropes and rappel at the end of the cracked slab (P5), the walk off looks nasty and long, rapping is 3, 60 meter raps and a huge time saver.

By chuckdrew
Jul 8, 2013

Fun route on relatively good rock. Route finding was a bit tricky. We did it in 3 pitches with a single 70 meter rope. An extra #1 and #2 Camalot would have been handy for the last pitch.

We changed into our approach shoes at the last rap station and scrambled up to the top of the mountain. The top of the mountain has a lovely view of the area and is covered with wild blueberries and rasberries, which made for a nice snack on a hot July day!

By Peter Lewis
From: Bridgton, Maine
Feb 4, 2014

This is just a great little route in a sunny and quiet place. The upper pitches following the crack are dead easy and way beyond delightful. And if you want a gorgeous view, hike up the 300' to the top of the cliff; it's well worth it and the hiking trail down is beautiful.