End to End 5.10a
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.10- [details] |
| FA: | Mike Johnson and Ed (Lou?) Kalina, 1986 |
| Submitted By: | Darin Lang on Aug 27, 2001 |
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BETA PHOTO: End to End as seen from the base of the route.
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Description This is excellent face climbing on the glassy east face of Kindergarten Rock, with generally solid rock and incut holds. End to End is the second bolted route to the right of the obvious New Era dihedral (just left of Bob's Buttress Crack, around the corner), ascending the slightly overhanging northern aspect of the arete past several bolts to a bolted rap station. A 50m rope is sufficient to set up a TR here if desired.
Protection 8 or 9 (6) QDs plus something for the bolted anchor.
By Anonymous Coward Apr 5, 2002
| Bring some tie-off's if you intend to lead this--one of the pins is only sunk about 1 1/2"; some of the others aren't much better. This is a good route to run TR laps on: it is sustained, interesting, and has countless variations, due to the plethora of incuts. Don't just lock on to the chalked hold if you run some laps--look and feel around for more and the line can be much more fun. |
By Anonymous Coward Jun 16, 2004
Gear Alert
| I agree - great route to run laps on. It's getting tougher and tougher to gain the anchor, though. Tie-offs won't do it anymore, as pins are missing. We climbed Bob's crack and toproped off of that to reach the still solid End anchor. |
By phil wortmann From: Colorado Springs, Co. Sep 25, 2007 rating: 5.10a
| Maybe the most sustained 10a in The Garden. |
By Erik Tullberg From: Colorado Springs Jul 10, 2008
| I'm glad that someone else noticed that it was sustained. Whew! I also agree about the TR... we did End of an Era and then TR'd End to End. Good thing, too. I would have had a few bruises. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Jul 31, 2009 rating: 5.10a
| The moves are continuously 10a, with some fun clips. If this were any more overhanging, it would be 11. Also, a healthy 30' runout on 5.8 terrain to the first pin gets your blood pumping for the rest of this exciting lead. My only complaint was that it felt a bit contrived, and it was difficult to keep my hands away from the arete to the climber's left and the large crack to the climber's right. |
By matt bruton From: Colorado Springs, Colorado Mar 30, 2010 rating: 5.10a
| Tightened the first bolt and the anchors today. Great route the pitons are still strong and should hold through the rest of the year. |
By EricJochens From: Co Springs, CO Aug 30, 2010
| Awesome route! Excellent warm up and pumpy crimps straight to the end. Would be excellent if the pitons were retrobolted. Some day I will learn to do this and contribute myself. Try the Death of a Dinosaur on the left-side of the arête and traverse right to End to End once you reach the first bolts for a really fun climb. |
By mountainmicah83 From: Colorado Springs Oct 12, 2011 rating: 5.10a
| 6 QDs plus anchor. I ripped pretty good today on no. 6, and it held like a champ. |
By Stewart M. Green Aug 18, 2012
| Brian Shelton and I, along with David Mason and Robb Conner, took out the old pitons and rebolted Sandy Monster and End to End with beefy new bolts. Some of the angles were solid, but most came out without too much work. So climb on.... Thanks, Dave and Robb, for buying the hardware! |
By Bosier Parsons From: Colorado Springs, CO Aug 30, 2012
| I could be mistaken, but I believe the FA was by Mike Johnson and Lou Kalina. More importantly, has anyone heard anything about what happened to this guy??? If so, please let me know, as he pretty much went M.I.A. close to 8 (?) years ago. |
By R Kil Sep 5, 2012 rating: 5.10a/b
| Thank you to Stewart and friends for the rebolting. I was pleasantly surprised last week. |
By Jordan Hirro From: Colorado Springs/Glenwood Spri Oct 15, 2012
| Very sustained 10a! Sharp, solid holds. Either place first pro on the neighboring 5.8, or slip a 0.5 cam in on Bob's Buttress, then climb left back on to End to End. Fun climb. |
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