||Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
|Original: || YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13 [details]|
|FA: ||FA: Wiegand & Cleveland '70. FFA: Goldstne & Williams, '75|
|Page Views: ||856|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Jul 30, 2006|
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Dave Rone just above the crux on End Pin. July 201...
A great route, but a rough intro as a first route in the needles. It requires great faith in the friction here.
Climb up the East Face cracks past a bit of gear and a pin, reaching a bolt. Get into a good stance and figure your way past a bulge just below a second bolt, you may or may not decide to place a micro-cam in a little constriction below a slick fingerlock entering the crux. I placed it. My partner did not. Then again, I caught a few hefty falls due to that too... I think it would hold a fall. Anyway, it is a little in the way of the climbing. COmplete the crux, reach over and clip the second bolt, then proceed on pretty good holds and easier moves (5.8+?) to the top, but probably pumped.
On the East Face of the End Pin, staring you in the face as you look at the End Pin formation.
A few small cams and nuts plus 2 bolts.
Not over til it is over. Dave Rone. July, 2013.
From: Morrison, CO
Sep 2, 2008
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
This route is on the NORTH face of the End Pin, not the EAST face. There is currently a bomber bolt anchor on the summit, and it looks as though the two bolts on the route have been replaced recently.
From: Poughkeepsie, NY
Sep 24, 2011
When Williams and I did the FFA in 1975, there was no bolt (and no other pro) after the crux.