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5.6 dihedral 
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End of the Innocence variation 
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Unsorted Routes:

End of the Innocence variation 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: contrived, no FA
Page Views: 1,242
Submitted By: John W. Knoernschild on May 18, 2008
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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BETA PHOTO: The red horizontal line indicates a ledge that is ...


Climb to the left of the bolts on "End of the Innocence", right between "End" and "Curse". Avoid all holds on "Curse of the Drill". Move straight up on crimpy holds and small feet. Climb straight through overhang and work your way back into the finish of "End of the Innocence" finishing with the same layback/undercling to top it off.


Between "End of the Innocence" and "Curse of the Drill"


5 bolts, 2 top bolts (anchors)
(same bolts as "End")

Photos of End of the Innocence variation Slideshow Add Photo
end of innocence, curse of the drill, and all in between
BETA PHOTO: end of innocence, curse of the drill, and all in b...
Comments on End of the Innocence variation Add Comment
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By Jay Knower
From: Plymouth, NH
May 18, 2008

What bolts do you clip? Is it hard to reach right (or left?) to clip?

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 18, 2008

I used the bolts to the right on "End" and it was easy to clip.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
May 19, 2008

Isn't this type of "squeezing in" reserved for toprope routes at the Lake? To climb a "route" between two already closely spaced lines, such that you could clip the bolts on either of the other routes seems a bit like pushing it to me, but whatever, you had fun right? I guess next time I'm there I'll have to give it a go...

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 19, 2008

It really wasn't a squeeze James. You can't reach the bolts on "Curse", only 2 of them are near you during the route. It is simply a direct route of "End". It stays very close to the bolts on "End". I didn't have to try to stay away from "Curse", but for those tempted to take the easy way, I put the "x" marks in the photo to keep you on track. And yes, it was alot of fun.

By James M Schroeder
From: Sauk County, WI
May 19, 2008


I was there when "The End" and "Curse" were being put in, we climbed your variation on Toprope and we decided it was best to keep the routes more spaced out. As it is the "The End" and "Curse" are relatively close. I don't want to get into a big flame-fest with you about this so I sent you a PM.


By Erik Olson
Jul 3, 2008

Not to add to the fire but this is pretty much the same route just a little left. I usually climb this route and always considered it the "End" and at the same time I see people mix it up between this "route" and the "End" often, especially when it is their first time on the "End". Seems like this maybe this should be listed as a variation of the "End" on it's page and not listed as a completely separate route.

2 cents

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
Jul 9, 2008


The fire was put out long ago. And I did list it as a variation of end instead of a direct route. But it clearly is a completely different beginning. "End" is climbed to the right of the bolts. The variation is climbed to the left of the bolts. I dont see how you think it is the same climb. The end is the same, therefore making it a variation.

By Tradoholic
Aug 12, 2009

Highly contrived? "End..." with bad beta? A "squeeze job"? Yes this is all of those things but in the end you will get a little extra mileage by adding this into your day.

Although, I think variations ought to be posted under what they are variations of to reduce clutter on MP. But, this was posted long ago and you probably already know what I think ;)

Climb on!