End of an Era 

Really an excellent route on solid rock (yes, there is some at the Garden) with friendly holds and great position. Not being solid at the grade, I've always taken the Bob's Traverse. The direct start may well push this into three star territory.

The hanger on the second bolt is gone. You can take up a small nut and use it as a replacement hanger or reach right and use the old pin on the face climb (I forget the name, but it has a pin about 5 feet directly right of the missing hanger) for protection.

The hanger on the second bolt is still missing, which made me back off of the lead as I've never had the balls to use a wired nut on a bolt. Another option to doing this route safely is to climb Bob's Crack and use the anchor to toprope any line you fancy on the whole face. Only drawback is the sizeable pendulum waiting for you after your topout - best to swing off a few feet early or change your anchor once there to lower off.

The holds on this route are sharp, dish-like, and angle upwards - fun climbing.

I climbed the first ascent of this route with Anne Leibold in 1978.

George Allen

"End of an Era" and "End to End" have a new, modern set of anchors--2 1/2" stainless steel bolts with chain and stainless steel rings. Both are backed up by a good fixed piton. The first piton that fell out last year has been replaced with a 1/2" bolt and a new hanger was placed on second bolt of "Death of the Dinosaurs" (the hanger was previously stolen), so now both routes are once again reasonably well-protected leads. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware to update the routes.

Just climbed this last night. One of the new bolts and hanger are loose. The bolt is not bad, but it moves enough to deserve comment especially since because of the chain length, that bolt takes most of the weight on rappel.

• **note*** bolt has been tightened.

One of the best sport routes of this grade in the Garden. Definitely do the direct start, although I would call it 5.9 instead of 5.10.

This route is a great tribute to one of the first ascensionists, George Allen, who died in 2006. George was a friend and climbing partner of mine, and I miss him greatly. Climbing this route today brought back great memories of him.

I think this is on off the best climbs in the Garden. Great views. My son said it's one of his favorites to lead.

This is a great route! Fun, fun. Tried leading the arete at the second bolt but couldn't commit; stayed on the right side of the arete, switching to the left between the two pitons on End to End. TR'd the direct start; I think it is at least .10a and possibly .10b above the second bolt on the left side.

I've wanted to climb this route for quite a while -- but from the ground it looked very intimidating to me, for a moderate lead. The bolts/pitons appeared to be spaced out pretty far, it's essentially vertical, and it always looked harder than a 5.8 climb. But once I actually got on it (came in from Bob's Buttress side), I found there are amazing holds (not visible from the ground) all the way up, and the feet placements are all there, too. Even the bolts and pitons are exceptionally well placed, in my opinion (again -- now that I've actually climbed it). This is a great climb, and I can't wait to do it again!