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 ADVANCED
East Face
Routes Sorted
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"The Route on the Left" aka Sand in the Vaseline S 
Alligator Soup S 
Anarchy S 
Antline T 
Beat Me Up, Scotty S 
Beginning of the End a/k/a Sandy Monster S 
Big Sky S 
Binary  T,S 
Bob's Buttress Crack T 
Death of a Dinosaur  S 
Diesel and Dust S 
End of an Era S 
End to End S 
Extremist (former entered as Civil Disobedience), The S 
Inner Sanctum T,TR 
New Era T 
New Generation T,S 
Sandy Beaches T 
Skyline Pig S 

End of an Era 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Allen, Ann Liebold, 9/79
Page Views: 5,997
Submitted By: Barrett Cooper on Aug 19, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (47)
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Dan near the top of the wonderful arete.
Seasonal Closures - some are lifted MORE INFO >>>

Description 

End of an Era is the sharp arete located just to the left of Bob's Buttress Crack and to the right of New Era on the east face of Kindergarten Rock. I have found it easiest to park in the South Garden Parking Lot and then walk North to get to Kindergarten Rock. From the road, there is a short climber's trail going up to a large boulder on the east side of Kindergarten Rock. The climb is behind this boulder. There are two starts to the climb:

Option 1: Go straight up the arete to get to the first bolt which will be about 25 feet up from the base of the arete. This is rated at a 5.10 as a direct approach and is called Death of a Dinosaur .

Option 2: Start at the bottom of Bob's Buttress Crack and place a nut in the crack to protect you and your belayer from being pulled down a steep hill should you fall before the first bolt. From there, climb up and left to get on the arete up to the first bolt.

Follow the bolts up the arete and don't forget to enjoy the view. There are two bolts with rap rings at a lowering station about 70' off the deck.


Protection 

Quickdraws for the bolts.



Photos of End of an Era Slideshow Add Photo
End of an Era  as seen from the base of the route.
BETA PHOTO: End of an Era as seen from the base of the route.
Dan Petty near the top of End of an Era.
Dan Petty near the top of End of an Era.
Dave around the crux.
Dave around the crux.
Comments on End of an Era Add Comment
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By Darin Lang
Mar 19, 2002

Really an excellent route on solid rock (yes, there is some at the Garden) with friendly holds and great position. Not being solid at the grade, I've always taken the Bob's Traverse. The direct start may well push this into three star territory.

By Barrett Cooper
Jul 1, 2002

The hanger on the second bolt is gone. You can take up a small nut and use it as a replacement hanger or reach right and use the old pin on the face climb (I forget the name, but it has a pin about 5 feet directly right of the missing hanger) for protection.

By Sirius
From: Oakland, CA
Nov 17, 2003

Gear Alert

The hanger on the second bolt is still missing, which made me back off of the lead as I've never had the balls to use a wired nut on a bolt. Another option to doing this route safely is to climb Bob's Crack and use the anchor to toprope any line you fancy on the whole face. Only drawback is the sizeable pendulum waiting for you after your topout - best to swing off a few feet early or change your anchor once there to lower off.

The holds on this route are sharp, dish-like, and angle upwards - fun climbing.

By Anonymous Coward
Jan 21, 2004

I climbed the first ascent of this route with Anne Leibold in 1978.

George Allen

By Stewart M. Green
Jun 14, 2005

"End of an Era" and "End to End" have a new, modern set of anchors--2 1/2" stainless steel bolts with chain and stainless steel rings. Both are backed up by a good fixed piton. The first piton that fell out last year has been replaced with a 1/2" bolt and a new hanger was placed on second bolt of "Death of the Dinosaurs" (the hanger was previously stolen), so now both routes are once again reasonably well-protected leads. Thanks to Climbing Magazine and Petzl for donating the hardware to update the routes.

By Erik Tullberg
From: Colorado Springs
Jul 10, 2008

Just climbed this last night. One of the new bolts and hanger are loose. The bolt is not bad, but it moves enough to deserve comment especially since because of the chain length, that bolt takes most of the weight on rappel.

  • **note*** bolt has been tightened.

Still a great climb, especially with the direct start.

By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
May 14, 2011

This route is a great tribute to one of the first ascensionists, George Allen, who died in 2006. George was a friend and climbing partner of mine, and I miss him greatly. Climbing this route today brought back great memories of him.

By Danimal Jones
Jun 4, 2011
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I think this is on off the best climbs in the Garden. Great views. My son said it's one of his favorites to lead.

By Bill Olszewski
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Jun 9, 2011

This is a great route! Fun, fun. Tried leading the arete at the second bolt but couldn't commit; stayed on the right side of the arete, switching to the left between the two pitons on End to End. TR'd the direct start; I think it is at least .10a and possibly .10b above the second bolt on the left side.

By Rich F.
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 18, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I've wanted to climb this route for quite a while -- but from the ground it looked very intimidating to me, for a moderate lead. The bolts/pitons appeared to be spaced out pretty far, it's essentially vertical, and it always looked harder than a 5.8 climb. But once I actually got on it (came in from Bob's Buttress side), I found there are amazing holds (not visible from the ground) all the way up, and the feet placements are all there, too. Even the bolts and pitons are exceptionally well placed, in my opinion (again -- now that I've actually climbed it). This is a great climb, and I can't wait to do it again!