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This may be an old route that was retro-bolted (the FA reported that there were no indications that it had been climbed before). The first pitch climbs the face to the left of the Amphitheater Overhang (2 bolts) and moves out and around a small roof crux (1 bolt). You can either hop over the arete above the overhang or remain in the short dihedral. Then, walk over to the chains on the East-facing slab. Continue up the arete past several more bolts. There is a small runout section before a piton that can be protected with gear, but I ran it out for fun. I thought that this was a mostly 5.6 climb with a few 5.7 moves, but I gave it the + because my buddy insists that the roof is 5.8.
Between Amphitheater Left Overhang and the Flake. Look for two bolts facing North and another bolt facing East. You can see the belay chains above the Amphitheater Overhang Right. Walking off is faster and easier than making two rappels off (unless you have a 70 meter rope which barely gets you down).
~7 bolts, 1 piton, and 2 chains at each belay. Small to medium pro for the runout sections.
Top of second pitch achors
|By sputtering zoso|
Oct 29, 2006
This route was great fun. I led the 2 pitches in one as the rope drag aint too bad. The upper arete/face is exposed and has some classic beautiful rock. And, yes, it is a wee bit runout one the 2nd pitch, but easy climbing with large foot holds. Lowering off the anchor up top may not be a good idea as the arete to the right is VERY sharp.
Apr 8, 2007
A 70m rope gets you down to the base of Big in Japan with one 110' rappell. Really fun 5.7 on cool rock. Gotta love the bicolor 70m rope but don't lower off that sharp arete.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 16, 2008
After the roof, there is also a bolted line up the arete on the left. Anyone know what's it's called? Felt about 5.7 as well.
Sep 21, 2008
Sections of this route have probably been climbed before. A #1 TCU helps on the 2nd pitch.
"Really fun 5.7 on cool rock." ...1 star?
For some reason, I really like this route. IMO it's 2-3 stars
|By Jerome Sharpe|
From: Wanship, UT
Sep 29, 2009
Immediately to the left of Ampitheater Left Overhang. Fun, 5.7 climbing on first pitch, but last section run out. . Second pitch is 5.5 if you go left, 5.7 if you stay on/near the arete, very fun, very aesthetically pleasing rock. Second half of second pitch run out, but not really uncomfortably so. Nice view from the top, easy walk off or two raps. Two and a half stars.
From: park city
Aug 5, 2010
did the first pitch yesterday as my first climb after knee surgery. nice easy climb to get back into it. just ran out the upper section since i had no trad gear. i didnt know the grade when i got on it and im a little surprised its a 5.7 - i would say the first pitch is lower than that.
From: Cedar Hills
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b
This was the second route I have ever done in BCC and my first multi-pitch lead. I gave it 4 stars because as a new leader I thought the second pitch made the climb worth it. The first pitch and crux of the climb is pulling the roof. As soon as you do this look right and you will see the chains. Like the other comment stated itís a 5.4 climb for about 25' with no protection. A fall from here would be deadly for you and your ego...The second pitch follows the bolts up the right arÍte to two chains and a sketchy bolt that is getting loose. I believe the first pitch had 3 bolts and once you pull the roof you go straight to the chains on your right (you can see these chains from the ground). The second pitch was fun jug hauling and was protected by 4 bolts. The only thing on the second pitch that sketched me out and made the climb for me was how exposed it was. The bolts are kind of run out (especially between bolts 2-3) but like I said itís a jug haul. You could definitely make the whole thing one long pitch but the rope drag would suck. You can either wrap down or walk off. Overall it was a great climb, 5.7.
|By Jerome Sharpe|
From: Wanship, UT
Apr 2, 2013
The old pin that used to help protect the second pitch is now gone. Even sportier now.
Sep 23, 2013
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ MS 4a
Nice climb Brian on pretty rock, but if this isn't 5.5, what is? Stop grade inflation ;).