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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Rock Climbing 

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Location: 30.5032, -98.8213 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 142,255
Administrators: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Sep 3, 2006

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Best climbs for YOU in this area
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Daniel McClure, FA of False Determination, Photo G...

Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset MORE INFO >>>


Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.

Getting There 

17 miles outside of Fredericksburg via Ranch Road 965. Or take Highway 16 south for 14 miles from Llano and the Ranch Road 965 west to Enchanted Rock State Natural Area.

Fees and Camping 

The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $7/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.

Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.

In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.

Guides and Resources 

The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.

Climbing Season

Weather station 4.8 miles from here

290 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',16],['3 Stars',123],['2 Stars',110],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',5]

Classic Climbing Routes in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Enchanted Rock State Natural Area:
Jack Knife   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Cave Crack   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Sweat   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Walk In The High Country   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Sport, 5 pitches, 500'   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
The Kracken   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Middle Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Owl Crack   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Mark of the Beast   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 3 pitches   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Pro Sweat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport   Main Dome : News Wall
Ripple   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Orange Peel   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Top Choice   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30'   Little Dome : Carnivore Boulders
Stranger Than Friction   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   Main Dome : The Shield
Texas Crude   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Fear of Flying   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115'   Main Dome : The Shield
Clockwerk Orange   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R     Sport   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Ding Dongs and Taco Sauce   5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a     Trad, TR, 30'   Main Dome South : Frontside Boulders
Gravitron   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Main Dome : The Shield
Shocker   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R     Trad, 30'   Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Motorboat

Motorboat 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : Motorboat Rock
This is a beautiful arching crack. Good hand jams to start. The dihedral very quickly forces you into powerful stemming. Fist jams through the middle. The crux is toward the top of the vertical crack when it widens and the dihedral constricts to force you out of it. The flake behind your head is a great spot for your otherwise useless left hand....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX

Photos of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchante...
Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchante...
Rock Climbing Photo: Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo ...
Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchant...
Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchant...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.
Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.
Rock Climbing Photo: Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Ench...
Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Ench...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approaching the summit of the main dome.
Approaching the summit of the main dome.
Rock Climbing Photo: Sunset at Enchanted Rock after a great day of clim...
Sunset at Enchanted Rock after a great day of clim...
Rock Climbing Photo: I took this photo at campsite 35. You can see part...
I took this photo at campsite 35. You can see part...
Rock Climbing Photo: TR on Sweat
TR on Sweat
Rock Climbing Photo: An enchanted sunset
An enchanted sunset
Rock Climbing Photo: Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall
BETA PHOTO: Devil's Slide & Cheap Wine Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the ca...
Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the ca...
Rock Climbing Photo:
Rock Climbing Photo: Cave Crack
Cave Crack

Comments on Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 13, 2016
By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 15, 2006
For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (

E-Rock Climbing Overview

It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.

The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.

E-Rock Park Map
By theleroy
Mar 30, 2007
Can anyone give me a heads up to the weather at Enchanted in November?
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2007
A better resource is
By Shawn Gibson
From: San Antonio, Texas
Feb 24, 2008
Those are bad directions from Llano. Take HWY 16 SOUTH from Llano, to ranch road 965.

You would take HWY 87 North from Frdricksburg to rr 965.
By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 3, 2008
I think there was an earlier guide book called 'Stranger than Friction' by Rick Watson? Good luck finding that one!
By Hank Caylor
From: Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2009
Nope, "Stranger than Friction" is all James Crump and Dale Bergeron. Though Rick Watson is a Wikipedia of info and fun at Erock.
By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
May 12, 2009
And Bergeron that's the name I was trying to remember. Yeah don't forget that guy. A while back, I missed buying it on MP by minutes.

Stranger Than Friction: A Climbers Guide to Enchanted Rock, 1984, Dale Bergeron/James Crump.

If anyone needs a lesson Rick's with I'd recommend them.
By Fred Knapp
Dec 19, 2010
The new Enchanted Rock guidebook is out! New routes, new photos, etc. Should be in the Austin area shops or online:
By jeremy long
May 19, 2011
I miss e rock! It's where I cut my trad teeth. Hope I'll climb again there someday. I've heard the bouldering has really taken off there.
By trevor becker
Jan 19, 2013
GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Crack climb at Enchanted Rock:

By Ryan Levihn-Coon
From: Austin, Texas
Dec 24, 2013
The entry fee is now $7 per person. An annual State Park Pass will wave the fee for everybody in a single vehicle. The pass costs $60, good for 12 months.
By virginiapine
From: Charlottesville, Virginia
Apr 8, 2014
Ummm, ERSNA is most definitely SOUTH of Llano, not north...
By Matt Richardson
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 2, 2014
OK, the directions were a fail on my part. My apologies to all who went north from Llano. Send all bills to me via MP.
By jfailing
From: Lone Pine, CA
Mar 4, 2015
What is the latest on camping? If the main camping area is full, are there any alternatives for car camping, or does one have to go to the primitive sites? Can't wait to climb here!
By ScottHolmes
Sep 28, 2015
Camping if the park is full: You can go to Oxford Ranch Campground

Oxford Ranch Campground
11380 TX-16
Llano, TX 78643

It's about 13 miles north of the park.

By Tyler Jarvis
From: Spearfish, South Dakota
Nov 16, 2015
Anyone free to go climbin this week? awesome weather window super down to camp
512 663-3692
By Jamie Umbras
From: Dallas
Jan 12, 2016
Does anyone know if there is good place to park and sleep in vehicle without getting campsite around here?
By marc rosenthal
From: Canyon Lake, TX
Jan 13, 2016
There is good camping roughly 7 miles south of Erock at the Frontier Outpost. Pick your own site. There are restrooms but no showers, moderate amenities including beer. $5 per night. You can use showers at Erock on your day pass. The Outpost is located on the 965. Oxford camping is in the middle of a livestock area which means you will be searching for a site between cow patties. No livestock at Frontier Outpost.

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