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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
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Enchanted Rock State Natural Area 


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Administrators: Matt Richardson, LeeAB, Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Matt Richardson on Sep 3, 2006

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Chance of a Thunderstorm
93° | 68°
Chance of a Thunderstorm
90° | 68°
Partly Cloudy
93° | 68°
Partly Cloudy
91° | 66°
Mostly Cloudy
90° | 64°

Cave Crack

Description 

Enchanted Rock State Natural Area consists of over 1600 acres on the Big Sandy Creek north of Fredericksburg. The actual Rock is a large, pink granite dome that covers over 640 acres. The major dome is over 425' high. According to the Texas Parks Service, the dome itself is one of the largest batholithe's Pink Granite batholiths uncovered by erosion in the US. The main dome lies next to a second dome, both of which are surrounded by smaller formations. In the park, you will find tons of established bolted and traditional routes including aid routes that go up to A3. In addition, for those who love to hump pads, there is bouldering aplenty on the eratics surrounding the main domes.


Getting There 

17 miles outside of fredericksburg. Or 24 miles north of Llano on 87.


Fees and Camping 

The park is open year round except when public hunts take place (typically in the fall or winter, but check the calendar of events or call the park ahead to inquire). The entry fee is $6/person per day and is required in addition to any camping fees outlined below. Keep in mind that this park IS VERY POPULAR and that it does frequently reach maximum capacity in terms of parking and available space. So, if you want to get in, plan on getting there early, especially on weekends.

Excellent walk-in sites are available. These sites have tent pads, fire rings, and picnic tables. Restrooms, showers and water are within easy reach of each of the camping areas. Fees for the walk in sites are $15/night (as of April 2008; check TPWD's fee site for most current fees) with a maximum of 8 campers allowed at a single site. There are 46 sites available, all of which fill up fast, so reserve a site well in advance if you are planning on staying overnight at the park.

In addition, primitive sites (requiring a 1 to 3 mile hike) are available. These sites are $10/night for a maximum of four people per site. There are a 20 spaces located in each of the three available primitive areas. The primitive sites have access to outdoor toilets. Pets are allowed in the primitive areas. No water is available in these areas and fires not permitted.


Guides and Resources 

The original guide by Robert Price, Scott Harris and James Crump, The Dome Driver's Manual is long out of print although it is still possible to find used copies. However, Sean Grady recently published a updated guide to E-Rock called Enchanted Rock: A Climber's Guide which contains over 300 routes and 150 boulder problems. In addition, you can find topos of routes at E-Rock at ERockOnlinedotcom as well as an overview of the climbing areas and information concerning recreation and camping on the TPWD site.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Enchanted Rock State Natural Area:
Jack Knife   5.5     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Cave Crack   5.6     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Sweat   5.7     Trad, 1 pitch   Main Dome : News Wall
Cave Crack   5.7     Trad, 100 feet   Echo Canyon : Throne Rock Area
Middle Crack   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Owl Crack   5.8+     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Triple Cracks Sanctuary
Mark of the Beast   5.8+     Sport, 3 pitches   Main Dome : Devil's Slide
Pro Sweat   5.9     Sport   Main Dome : News Wall
Little Feat   5.9+     Trad, 40 feet   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Ripple   5.9+     Sport, 1 pitch   Main Dome : Cheap Wine Wall
Orange Peel   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Eat   5.10a     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : Southeast Face
Top Choice   5.10-     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Little Dome : Carnivore Boulders
Texas Crude   5.10b     Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Stranger Than Friction   5.10b PG13     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   Main Dome : The Shield
Fear of Flying   5.10     Trad, 1 pitch   Buzzard's Roost : East Face of Buzzard's Roos...
Scrambled Egg Sandwich   5.10+     Trad, 25 feet   Kingdom of Zilch : the Kingdom
Bold Talk for a One-Eyed Fat Man   5.10d R     Sport, 1 pitch, 115 feet   Main Dome : The Shield
Clockwerk Orange   5.11a R     Sport   Echo Canyon : Orange Peel Area
Shocker   5.12a R     Trad, 30 feet   Echo Canyon : Motorboat Rock
Browse More Classics in Enchanted Rock State Natural Area

Featured Route For Enchanted Rock State Natural Area
Daniel leading Top choice and approaching the crux.

Top Choice 5.10-  TX : Enchanted Rock State Natura... : ... : Carnivore Boulders
Beautiful, left leaning crack that turns vertical and slightly overhanging halfway up. The route starts with a bouldery step into the seem between the Matterhorn and the Grade A boulder. Tight hands finishes with a bulge to the top....[more]   Browse More Classics in TX


Photos of Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Slideshow Add Photo
Daniel McClure, FA of False Determination, Photo Goomba John Sanders, James Crump Collection. <br />False Determination, 5.11, 1978, Enchanted Rock, Texas

Daniel McClure, FA of False Determination, Photo G...

Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchanted Rock, Texas,  James Crump Collection.

Gravitron, FA, James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchante...

Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo Goomba John Sanders, Enchanted Rock, Texas, James Crump Collection.

Innominate, FA, Daniel McClure, 5.10, 1978, photo ...

Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchanted Rock, Texas,  James Crump Collection.

Texas Radio, FA James Crump, 5.11 R, 1981, Enchant...

Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Enchanted Rock, Texas, James Crump Collection

Goomba John Sanders and his big friend, 1979, Ench...




Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the cave.

Deeper into the hot, dripping wet depths of the ca...

Approaching the summit of the main dome.

Approaching the summit of the main dome.

Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.

Tonka Toys from Hell. Photo by Jacob Valdez.


Comments on Enchanted Rock State Natural Area Add Comment
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By Steve Marr
From: Colorado Springs, CO
Sep 15, 2006

For a quick overview of the climbing at E-Rock, download a map produced by the TPWD on their web site (www.tpwd.state.tx.us):

E-Rock Climbing Overview

It's not very detailed, but it will get you to the general area. There is also a "select" list of climbs throughout the park on the 2nd page.

The TPWD website contains a lot of additional information on the park such as camping and hiking trails.

E-Rock Park Map

By theleroy
Mar 30, 2007

Can anyone give me a heads up to the weather at Enchanted in November?

By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 28, 2007

A better resource is www.erockonline.com

By Shawn Gibson
From: San Antonio, Texas
Feb 24, 2008

Those are bad directions from Llano. Take HWY 16 SOUTH from Llano, to ranch road 965.

You would take HWY 87 North from Frdricksburg to rr 965.

By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
Sep 3, 2008

I think there was an earlier guide book called 'Stranger than Friction' by Rick Watson? Good luck finding that one!

By Hank the Tank
From: Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2009

Nope, "Stranger than Friction" is all James Crump and Dale Bergeron. Though Rick Watson is a Wikipedia of info and fun at Erock.

By J C Wilks
From: Loveland, CO
May 12, 2009

And Bergeron that's the name I was trying to remember. Yeah don't forget that guy. A while back, I missed buying it on MP by minutes.

Stranger Than Friction: A Climbers Guide to Enchanted Rock, 1984, Dale Bergeron/James Crump.

If anyone needs a lesson Rick's with www.rock-about.com. I'd recommend them.

By Fred Knapp
Dec 19, 2010

The new Enchanted Rock guidebook is out! New routes, new photos, etc. Should be in the Austin area shops or online:
sharpendbooks.com/prod.php?t=0&q=29

By jeremy long
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011

I miss e rock! It's where I cut my trad teeth. Hope I'll climb again there someday. I've heard the bouldering has really taken off there.

By trevor becker
Jan 19, 2013

GoPro HERO 2 HD footage of Crack climb at Enchanted Rock: