Empty Overgo 5.10a PG13
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.10a [details] |
| FA: | |
| Submitted By: | Lurker on Mar 10, 2012 |
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Raptor Nesting MORE INFO >>>
On June 16, 2012, a nest with chicks was noticed on the ledge at the end of the second pitch of Touch and Go. Please take care to avoid disturbing the nest and avoid climbing routes from Touch and Go south to the left side of the Cannibal Gully (such as Inner Recess, Rambo Crack, and Bourbon Street) until the chicks fledge. Fledging can happen early, but typical seasonal closures extend until September 1st or later.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description More direct, 2-pitch variation to Touch and Go. P1 (5.9+): climb Rat's Tooth to bolted anchors. P2 (5.10a) climb Hungover Hangover, the short, slightly overhanging hand crack to bolted anchors. P3 (5.7): head left to Empty Sky arete (somewhat runout), or continue straight up the dihedral to Lizard Ledge. P4 (5.6): choose any of the finishes off Lizard Ledge.
Location Between One Hand Clapping and Cannibal Gully. Walkoff, or you can rap the route if you really want to.
Protection Gear to 3.5". Fixed anchors on each pitch. Empty Sky pitch (above Hungover Hangover) has 2 bolts and some small gear.
By Laine From: Reno, NV Mar 14, 2012
| Great link up but as I recall P3 was definitely 10a till you arrive at the arete. When we did Touch n Go, we traversed over to the 5.7 arete of Empty Sky, bypassing the lower bolts. Hope this helps. |
By Patrick Mulligan Apr 2, 2012
| Agreed wtih Laine on this one. Its a great link up and while the second pitch and third pitch are very different in nature (overhanging hand crack, and slightly run out slab) they are both .10 in difficulty. The bolted slab on the arete is slightly run out .10, if you go straight up I've heard that's 5.7, but I've never done it so can't comment. |
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