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Chapel Pond Slab
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Empress 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a X

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 865'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a [details]
FA: 1933, Fritz Wiessner, George Austin
Page Views: 4,154
Submitted By: Eli Kramer on Aug 25, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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Taking Mom up the last pitch of Empress

Description 

Climbs the slab with fantastic friction to a birch terrace on the left side. The route starts on the left facing corner to some belay cracks up above it. You can skip pitches 2 and 3 by taking a run-out direct line to the third belay. The last pitch before that ledge, the 3rd or 4th depending, is the crux pitch. The steepest slab on the route with no protection. Make sure not to be lulled to the protection right where the grade is suddenly steeper and slicker (Victoria 5.6+ R).From here, climb the off-width crack past a good ledge and out on to the slab on the right for 40 Ft to a belay at an overlap. Climb up the slab as it gets easier to the small clump of trees. Belay from here, or traverse right along a ledge to the trees right towards the north descent.

Location 

The left side of the slab. Best descent is to traverse right to the north gully and follow a path with some fixed hand lines back to the start.

Protection 

A small rack, a few medium and small cams and a few small nuts. Not much gear to place.


Photos of Empress Slideshow Add Photo
Offwidth pitch
Offwidth pitch
fun slab climb
fun slab climb
Our second section of simul-climbing on Empress
Our second section of simul-climbing on Empress
Right before second simul-solo
Right before second simul-solo
Crossing one of the hummocks on P3.
Crossing one of the hummocks on P3.

Comments on Empress Add Comment
Show which comments
By doligo
Jun 1, 2010
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

This climb is not as popular as Regular route for its X rating, so you don't have to wait much in line if the first pitch is dry and you can run it out pass the point where Regular branches out. Small gear, but you may want to bring gold and blue camalots for anchors. Off-width protects nicely with small gear, but if you're not sure, you can bring a #4 camalot - it gets pretty windy on that arete. Watch out for those crumbly flakes - my partner broke off a huge piece while holding onto one.
By Jaysen Henderson
From: White Plains, New York
Aug 2, 2011

A fantastic climb, but as the description says be sure that at the base of the X pitch begin straight up from the perch, do not traverse right to the fixed gear, if you do there are no feet and traversing into the main line is a little dicey. A great climb for someone solid on slab and solid in the mental aspect of climbing haha.
By Mike McLean
Aug 11, 2011
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

As Adirondack Rock mentions, I'd avoid belaying at the top of the OW. A fall on the runout and unprotected slab directly above would be directly on the anchors. Keep going up another 40 feet and belay at the obvious vertical crack at the overlap.
By Justin Fletcher
From: Lake Placid, NY
Jul 17, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

Once you are past the OW it gets really run out. We were not expecting there to be almost zero protection but that is most certainly the case.
By Benjaminadk
From: Lake George, NY
Jul 25, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

Awesome varied route. I think it gets my nod over the regular route in everyway, except the gear rating i guess :)
By kenr
Jul 27, 2012

About as varied climbing and terrain you could have given that it's all still a friction slab.

P1 - nice warmup of friction -- check if your head is ready today for what lies above. Careful not to make the anchor too high, or you'll have to down-climb to the "steppy" rock that starts the next pitch.
P2 - different rock textures ... right across the "steppy" rock, then up white-ish rock to make an anchor near base of giant L-facing corner.
(? alt P2 ? The reason not to go directly to the bottom of the crux pitch P4 is then you miss out on the interesting rock types and features that make this route different from most slab routes).
P3 - up a little along the giant L-facing corner, then out left before it overhangs, and keep traversing ... first across the low part of a thin flake, then up onto th first hump, below a second (less distinct) hump, and finish on top of third hump.
P4 - pretty much straight up, perhaps trending a little left toward the off-width. The reason it's rated X instead of the usual friction slab R is because if the leader falls, it's not just a long slide to the end of the rope -- rather the fall comes done hard onto a substantial rock ledge with a big elevated lip - (or smashes onto the unfortunate belayer).
P5 - I thought the off-width was pretty fun with my feet outside it on its left side the whole way up -- nice way to retain the character of the route as a friction climb. Anyway followed by another runout friction section up to a obvious (but narrow) overlap.
P6 - less steep friction up to a big stone lying on the surface, with trees nearby to right.
P7 - we were taking the north descent, so we traversed right (actually the easiest line seemed a little downhill at first) to the right side of the slab to the trees, found an informal trail up thru trees and across exposed rock sections obvious to the (non-trivial) north descent.
By Jay Harrison
Dec 7, 2012
rating: 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a X

Super classic friction route; definitely NOT for beginning or shaky leaders. Two spots, as mentioned, would be terrible fall zones: the third pitch's 90' runout, and after stepping off the block above the big crack.