|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|Consensus:||YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]|
|FA:||Pat Ament & Lowell Green, 1980|
|Submitted By:||Buster Jesik on Oct 6, 2007|
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|Comments on Empor Scary Variant||Add Comment|
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
|Can also be accessed from the 'Northwest Corner' route.|
By Cliff M
From: Davis, CA
Jul 21, 2008
So I'm not sure if I accidentally climbed this route - we were shooting for Empor, but rather than heading up left into the V-notch, I headed straight up a small crack, which ended with a loose hold in a crack next to a VERY thin horizontal crack below a blank face.
Rather than heading left, like this route seems to suggest, I headed right on the crazy-thin horizontal - basically toesmears on nothing, match on tiny crimper, and huge move right to a crimp on the far right end of the horizontal. Yellow TCU in the horizontal.
After getting up on the small ledge to the right of the horizontal, a couple pieces up a short crack, and then another long traverse right. I ended up traversing out to the arete, to some jugs, but couldn't get any gear, and didn't want to run it out up the face, so I continued traversing around the arete to a head-sized pillar-flake, slinging that and finishing on the roof of Northwest Corner. It was probably a 30-ft unprotected traverse, which was really stupid, but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do anything else.
Is that this route, or did I do some strange new variation?
Jul 24, 2008
I think you may have been off route from the Empor for sure.
The direct 5.8 finish to the Empor is very obvious from the v-slot ramp. If you belayed after turning the corner left on the first pitch of the Empor, there would be a 12 foot crack running straight up. It then diagonals right for about 10 ft then heads up a smaller corner diagonal left. It is very straightforward. If my memory serves, you may have been on the face left of this crack. Not sure what that is. Either way. I wouldl go back and do the above finish :)
It is great climbing.