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Cob Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Crack 
Brownies In The Basin 
Corn on the Cob 
Crystal Arete 
Devil's Dream 
East Crack 
Empor 
Empor Scary Variant 
Face Problem 
Face Route 
Game, The 
Goat, The 
Headless Horseman, The 
Hug, The 
Hurley Direct 
Huston Crack 
Indistinction 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump 
Night Vision 
North Face Center 
North Face Left 
Northwest Corner 
Othello 
Right Crack 
Sleepy Hollow 
South Crack (Unknown) 
Thunder Road 
Under The Boardwalk 
Unknown 
West Cracks 
West Dihedral 
West Rib 
Unsorted Routes:

Empor Scary Variant 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Lowell Green, 1980
Page Views: 1,222
Submitted By: Buster Jesik on Oct 6, 2007
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Location 

In between the last pitch of Empor and the Northwest Corner .


Description 

Follow Empor to the upper wall. Instead of going left into the v notch, go straight up incipient cracks and seams. A crux move going left uses a wedged hold that is completely detached into an RP seam - be careful here. Another option is to escape to the Northwest Corner route.


Protection 

Same as for Empor with a couple of RPs and mini cams.



Comments on Empor Scary Variant Add Comment
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By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13

Can also be accessed from the 'Northwest Corner' route.

By Cliff M
From: Davis, CA
Jul 21, 2008

So I'm not sure if I accidentally climbed this route - we were shooting for Empor, but rather than heading up left into the V-notch, I headed straight up a small crack, which ended with a loose hold in a crack next to a VERY thin horizontal crack below a blank face.
Rather than heading left, like this route seems to suggest, I headed right on the crazy-thin horizontal - basically toesmears on nothing, match on tiny crimper, and huge move right to a crimp on the far right end of the horizontal. Yellow TCU in the horizontal.
After getting up on the small ledge to the right of the horizontal, a couple pieces up a short crack, and then another long traverse right. I ended up traversing out to the arete, to some jugs, but couldn't get any gear, and didn't want to run it out up the face, so I continued traversing around the arete to a head-sized pillar-flake, slinging that and finishing on the roof of Northwest Corner. It was probably a 30-ft unprotected traverse, which was really stupid, but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do anything else.
Is that this route, or did I do some strange new variation?

By SAL
From: broomdigiddy
Jul 24, 2008

I think you may have been off route from the Empor for sure.
The direct 5.8 finish to the Empor is very obvious from the v-slot ramp. If you belayed after turning the corner left on the first pitch of the Empor, there would be a 12 foot crack running straight up. It then diagonals right for about 10 ft then heads up a smaller corner diagonal left. It is very straightforward. If my memory serves, you may have been on the face left of this crack. Not sure what that is. Either way. I wouldl go back and do the above finish :)
It is great climbing.