In between the last pitch of Empor and the Northwest Corner .
Follow Empor to the upper wall. Instead of going left into the v notch, go straight up incipient cracks and seams. A crux move going left uses a wedged hold that is completely detached into an RP seam - be careful here. Another option is to escape to the Northwest Corner route.
Same as for Empor with a couple of RPs and mini cams.
|Comments on Empor Scary Variant
|By Tony B|
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 20, 2007
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a PG13
Can also be accessed from the 'Northwest Corner' route.
|By Cliff M|
From: Davis, CA
Jul 21, 2008
So I'm not sure if I accidentally climbed this route - we were shooting for Empor, but rather than heading up left into the V-notch, I headed straight up a small crack, which ended with a loose hold in a crack next to a VERY thin horizontal crack below a blank face.
Rather than heading left, like this route seems to suggest, I headed right on the crazy-thin horizontal - basically toesmears on nothing, match on tiny crimper, and huge move right to a crimp on the far right end of the horizontal. Yellow TCU in the horizontal.
After getting up on the small ledge to the right of the horizontal, a couple pieces up a short crack, and then another long traverse right. I ended up traversing out to the arete, to some jugs, but couldn't get any gear, and didn't want to run it out up the face, so I continued traversing around the arete to a head-sized pillar-flake, slinging that and finishing on the roof of Northwest Corner. It was probably a 30-ft unprotected traverse, which was really stupid, but I couldn't seem to figure out how to do anything else.
Is that this route, or did I do some strange new variation?
Jul 24, 2008
I think you may have been off route from the Empor for sure.
The direct 5.8 finish to the Empor is very obvious from the v-slot ramp. If you belayed after turning the corner left on the first pitch of the Empor, there would be a 12 foot crack running straight up. It then diagonals right for about 10 ft then heads up a smaller corner diagonal left. It is very straightforward. If my memory serves, you may have been on the face left of this crack. Not sure what that is. Either way. I wouldl go back and do the above finish :)
It is great climbing.