|Emotional Rescue Area
Climbing this burly and obvious roof is a guaranteed big day out. The moves are hard, it covers all sizes, and you will at some point be upside down, so take all the change out of your pockets. Hard and thin roof moves at the start soon lead to bomber hands. So far so good... As you near the lip things open up and perhaps the grains get a bit bigger... plug a 4" cam and then get to work. Turing the lip and getting established in the crack above is the crux.
This obvious route lies to the right of Lubricated Goat and has the route Bish cross over the top of it. Look for the big roof with the wide crack going through it. Can't miss it.
Come in from climbers left and set a belay anchor for the main event. There might be rap anchors or even a bolt these days from the route Bish that crosses the upper section.
This roof goes from pinkies to wide flare in about 10 feet, so a few nuts and then a selection of cams up to 4". Larger cams might be useful around the lip, but the climbing eases quickly and pro to 4" seemed adequate.
|By Russ Walling|
Feb 4, 2014
This is a bitchen ball buster of the first magnitude. It's hard, it's grainy, and will probably leave some lasting reminders on your body. I've seen a who's who of great climbers get spit out of this thing, so remember to try hard. On the circus scale, with 3 rings being a full on circus, this rates two rings.