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Unsorted Routes:

Emmons Glacier 

   
Type:  Alpine, 10700'
Original: Mod. Snow [details]
FA: Rainier: Hazard Stevens and Philemon Van Trump, 1870 Emmons Glacier route: ??
Page Views: 7,380
Submitted By: Bryson Slothower on Jun 23, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Top of the steamboat prow looking at the route.

Description 

Start from the White River ranger station (360)569-6030 at 4,300ft.

Follow the White River 3.1 miles to tree line and possible camping at Glacier Basin around 6000ft.

Continue up the Interglacier (crevasses) to Camp Curtis at 8,500 ft. and more possible camping. Descend slightly at the top of the ridge down onto the Emmons Glacier and continue up a short distance to the standard high camp at Camp Schurman and Steamboat Prow at 9,450 ft.

From Schurman head up and left to a 1,500 ft. snowy ramp called the Corridor.

Above the Corridor the climbing steepens and trends right to the bergschrund which may be tricky to cross depending on conditions.

Above the bergschrund one more steep section awaits before the summit.

Descend the route.

Location 

NE side of Rainier.

Protection 

Glacier gear with snow pro.


Photos of Emmons Glacier Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Water Camp Curtis
BETA PHOTO: Water Camp Curtis
Rock Climbing Photo: A party navigating a crevasse as they enter Camp S...
A party navigating a crevasse as they enter Camp S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp Schurman Ranger Station
Camp Schurman Ranger Station
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending the Emmons
Descending the Emmons
Rock Climbing Photo: Descending from the summit
Descending from the summit
Rock Climbing Photo: Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, bel...
Right before stepping onto the Emmons Glacier, bel...
Rock Climbing Photo: View of Rainier
View of Rainier
Rock Climbing Photo: Camp Schurman.  Emmons Glacier Route.  June 2011
Camp Schurman. Emmons Glacier Route. June 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit Crater of Mt. Rainier.  June 2011
Summit Crater of Mt. Rainier. June 2011
Rock Climbing Photo: Little Tahoma Peak as seen from the Emmons Glacier...
Little Tahoma Peak as seen from the Emmons Glacier...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent, looking back up at Rainier as I made the ...
Descent, looking back up at Rainier as I made the ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Descent on Emmons.  Becky, Jake, Joel, Scotty.
Descent on Emmons. Becky, Jake, Joel, Scotty.
Rock Climbing Photo: climbers above the corridor
climbers above the corridor
Rock Climbing Photo: Emmons Glacier
Emmons Glacier

Comments on Emmons Glacier Add Comment
Show which comments
By Bryson Slothower
Jun 24, 2007

A flood during the winter of 2007 washed out much of the trail between the White River ranger station and Glacier Basin. While the trial is being rebuilt there is yellow flag tape marking the route for about a mile. Expect loose rock in washed out gullies and downed trees to delay travel a bit.
By Bingman
From: Fort Collins, CO
Nov 21, 2008

FA: Reverend J. Warner Fobes, George James, and Richard O., 1884.

For more FA info, and a lot more beta on the route, see this.
By Sarah Kate
From: Seattle, WA
May 5, 2009

Fewer people, totally stunning, moderate route up the back of the White Giant. Do it early in the season to avoid having to do massive hauls around the bergschrund.
By lucander
From: Stone Ridge, NY
Aug 5, 2013
rating: Easy Snow

Left trailhead at 6pm, summited a little after daybreak. Done this way, there is excellent firm snow the whole way.
By Jonathan Stickel
From: Golden, CO
Jul 31, 2016

We climbed this route July 25-27, 2016 in clear and quite warm weather. We found it was hard to get information about water sources on the mountain. Maybe most people just melt snow (a fine option but requires a lot of fuel). We were able to dam up a trickle of melt snow near Camp Curtis, where we chose to camp. See beta photo. It was possible to filter water out of the small pool. Not sure how early in the season this would be viable.

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