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Emission Control 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b X

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Greg Davis and Dan Hare, 1984
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt [details]
Page Views: 514
Submitted By: David Benson on Sep 12, 2001
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Emission Control starts with the first pitch of Gonzo and then breaks right across the west face, around the arete and up the south face of the Fin Four.

Rossiter mentions the original start, but notes that everyone usually just starts with Gonzo. Begin as for Gonzo, to the left of a large block between fins three and four. Continue the up the left arching crack (8). With careful rope management, the first two pitches can be combined. Otherwise belay at the corner.

Move up the left side of Fin Four and move right past the old bolt (crux) and continue to the arete. The rock immediately past the crux on the right side of the arete is of poor quality and protection is basically non-existant, but the climbing is easy (7). Continue up the arete, good gear is available about 25' up in a horizontal break (wise to double this up). Continue up the arete to the top. Belay from a single bolt at the top.

The crux moves I feel are pretty moderate for 10d. Rossiter rates the upper section 7s, but I think it is more s/vs. Close to the top you're a good 35-40' out from your last piece of protection.


Protection 

Rack up to a #2 Camalot.



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By Robert D.
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 14, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

A pretty good route. The crux is protected by a bolt, making it 5.10d, 5.7 R.