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The Precipice aka The South Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Albatross T 
Balance Queen T 
Band of Gypsys T 
Bartleby -(Central Slab) T 
Birch Ade - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Boys From Bangor T 
Byzantine T 
Chicken of the Sea T 
Chitlin's Corner T 
Connecticut Cracks T 
Country Corner - (mid-cliff START) T 
Crack Of Senility -(Central Slab) T 
Dynamo Hum - (mid-cliff START) T 
Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)  T 
Fear of Flying T 
Fingers in a Seascape (mid-cliff START) S 
From Russia With Love -(Central Slab) T 
Gale Face T 
Games Without Frontiers - (mid-cliff START) S,TR 
Green Mt. Breakdown T 
Grendal T 
Gunklandia T 
Gunklandia Direct Variation T 
High Wire T 
Jaws T 
Juvenile T,S 
London Bridges T 
Lower Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Main Wall / Alcove / Staircase Break T 
Maniacal Depression T 
Michael's Pin - (mid-cliff START) T 
Mme. LeBois' Troubled Lunge -(Central Slab) T 
Old Town T 
Philidelphia Story, The T 
Pipe Dreams T 
Precipice Ledges T 
Quiver T 
Ramp Traverse, The T 
Recollections of Pacifica -(Central Slab) T 
Retlaw T 
Return to Forever - (mid-cliff START) T 
Rusticator T 
Scaramouche Arete - (mid-cliff START) S 
Sea Gypsy T 
Space Between T 
Staircase, The T 
Standard Route T 
Star Face Mole T 
Story of O T 
Sweet Surrender -(Central Slab) T 
Swept Away T 
Trotsky T 
Vacation Cracks - (mid-cliff START) T 
Wafer Step -(Central Slab) T 
Wet Lithuanian, The T 
Wilner's Route TR 

Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START)  

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 85'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: please help
Page Views: 2,292
Submitted By: Matthew Fienup on Jul 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: Emigrant Crack as seen from Old Town ledge

Annual Trail Closures to protect Peregrine falcons MORE INFO >>>


Striking finger crack that splits the smooth face right of Gunklandia. One must hang with the crack the entire way for full value. Stepping left into Gunklandia at any point drops the grade to 5.9.

Descend by walking up and left from the top of the route (exposed class 2+) to the bolted rappel anchor atop Return to Forever. 2-Rappels with a 60m rope lead to the ground.


A mid-cliff START: Begin pitch 3 of Gunklandia. At a ledge with a large dead tree, step right and follow the finger crack to the top.

For additional info, click here


Small nuts and cams, especially 1/2"

Photos of Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Emigrant Crack follows the striking finger crack b...
Emigrant Crack follows the striking finger crack b...

Comments on Emigrant Crack - (mid-cliff START) Add Comment
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By Matthew Fienup
From: Ventura, CA
Jul 25, 2007

It is possible to climb Emigrant Crack after staring on either Connecticut Crack, Old Town or Gunklandia. A large ledge splits the cliff at mid-height. An exposed scramble allows you to move horizontally between routes.
By Ian Wauchope
From: Dover, NH
Aug 25, 2010

I was able to access this climb by doing Precipice Ledges (5.4) and then making a 4th class traverse right. This is good beta if your partner isn't solid at 5.10.
By James Enrico
Sep 14, 2010

gunklandia direct into emigrant crack awesome link up
By M Bageant
From: Cambridge, MA
Jun 18, 2015

Did it a few weeks ago. Definitely the best route from that trip! Feet and the option to "cheat" and stem off the Gunklandia corner to rest/place gear dial down the pucker factor.

Though I do wish I had taken more BD 0.4 cams or equivalent...I had two plus an offset, but I could have happily placed five.
By DCSwish23
From: Maine/Spain
Sep 21, 2016

A really great route only brought down by the ability to step left and make it easier at any point. I don't think it's the same grade if you go left at all. That little contrivance brings the quality a bit for me.

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