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Emergency Brake 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Dan Hare and John Warren
Fixed Hardware: 2 Lead Bolts [details]
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: Dave Holliday on Oct 13, 2009
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Unknown climber crushin'.
Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This route is just to the right of Rush Buick. It starts below two bolts just to the right of that dihedral. Start with an awkward, but well-protected move to get going. I found the crux to be passing the second bolt. After that bolt began a rising traverse to the right underneath an overhang with gear in somewhat crunchy rock. After traversing for a bit (it's fairly obvious when to stop traversing), head straight up to the anchor atop Nobody's Home and belay there. There's a bit of a runout at the end, but the climbing is relatively easy.

Descend by making a 100 foot rappel from the anchor.

Overall, I found the pitch to a be little heads-up so it might not be a great one to test your limits.


Location 

This route is located a few feet to the right of Rush Buick. Get yourself to that route and look for two bolts just right of Rush Buick's dihedral; that's the start of the route.


Protection 

A standard rack will do.



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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Feb 5, 2010

The bolts on this one have indeed been replaced with modern hardware.

By Phil Lauffen
From: The Bubble
Feb 14, 2011
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

I ended up at the anchors for Rush Buick via a thin crack that went straight up after a short traverse right from the last bolt. A fun route worth doing if you're in the area.

By tooTALLtim
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 13, 2012

Going straight through the roof to Rush Buick is great!