Emergency Brake 5.9+
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 100 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.9+ [details] |
| FA: | Dan Hare and John Warren |
| Fixed Hardware: | 2 Lead Bolts [details] |
| Submitted By: | Dave Holliday on Oct 13, 2009 |
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Unknown climber crushin'.
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Description This route is just to the right of Rush Buick. It starts below two bolts just to the right of that dihedral. Start with an awkward, but well-protected move to get going. I found the crux to be passing the second bolt. After that bolt began a rising traverse to the right underneath an overhang with gear in somewhat crunchy rock. After traversing for a bit (it's fairly obvious when to stop traversing), head straight up to the anchor atop Nobody's Home and belay there. There's a bit of a runout at the end, but the climbing is relatively easy. Descend by making a 100 foot rappel from the anchor. Overall, I found the pitch to a be little heads-up so it might not be a great one to test your limits.
Location This route is located a few feet to the right of Rush Buick. Get yourself to that route and look for two bolts just right of Rush Buick's dihedral; that's the start of the route.
Protection A standard rack will do.
| Comments on Emergency Brake |
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By Jay Eggleston From: Littleton Feb 5, 2010
| The bolts on this one have indeed been replaced with modern hardware. |
By Phil Lauffen From: Louyuppie Feb 14, 2011 rating: 5.9+
| I ended up at the anchors for Rush Buick via a thin crack that went straight up after a short traverse right from the last bolt. A fun route worth doing if you're in the area. |
By tooTALLtim From: Boulder, CO Apr 13, 2012
| Going straight through the roof to Rush Buick is great! |
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