BETA PHOTO: A view of the rock with the Dire Spire on the lowe...
Emancipation Rockphormation is the epitome of Mount Rushmore climbing, a must do for any visiting climbers. Although much climbing is legal here, make sure that the rock that you are on is legal to avoid trouble (large fines and possibly jail for climbing or hiking in the wrong places). Boundary signs are in place to avoid crossing into the restricted areas.
This said, the legal areas on this wall are a great place to go. Relatively long routes (3 pitches) are found, and a lot of good cracks are available. Also, a wicked looking spire called Dire Spire is in the area which has some good routes on it.
7/1/10 ATTENTION: The boundary line has changed and is no longer the major gully. The new boundary is the top of White House Wall. This means the routes are still in the legal limits but you MUST RAPPEL and cannot walk-off White House Wall!
From the stoplight at Mount Rushmore, drive about 1 mile away from Keystone and park at a pulloff on the right side of the road. This pulloff should be quite near Dire Spire, a large independent spire just east of the road.
Browse More Classics in Emancipation
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Emancipation:
Featured Route For Emancipation
: Mount Rushmore National Mem...
: ... : Atomic Boulder
Classic. Start under the boulder on two underclings (same start as Atomic Weiner). Reach back to the traversing rail and work your way to the arete. Do a big move to a good sloper with your left hand then reach high with the right to a pinch on the arete...one more hard throw then V1 to top out. Don't exit out left but instead climb the arete to the highest point....[more] Browse More Classics in SD
Emancipation, and the area now known as Magna Cart...
|By Eric Krantz|
From: Black Hills
Jun 8, 2005
Interested to know more about the crack just to the right of Chemical Wire. The crack is the left side of a 'V', kinda offwidth, going up left towards the Chemical anchors. It's a good way to toprope chemical wire if, like me, it's beyond your ability.
|By Anonymous Coward|
Sep 28, 2005
The profile route has seen a FA. Rob Pizm from Golden Colorado did the route this weekend giving it 13a/b. Good Job Rob.
|By Mike Cronin|
Oct 27, 2005
VernI just spoke with Rob Pism about the first ascent of Profile 13a/b. He and his partners have given it the name of "Three Musketrre's". So if you are going to update the guide book you may make a note of this. I think they are coming back this weekend to try Paul Piana's Flamingo Drinker on Ottens Shoulder. Paul gave permission to open that one up. So Vern keep your pen ready for another update on this one.
|By Mark Jacobs|
Nov 6, 2005
Congratulations on the send of Profile/3 Musketeers. It must be 17+ years since it was "envisioned" by Vern? My generation truly owes a debt of gratitude to those from the previous generation (like Vern).
Great to hear the route's opened-up. - Mark J.
|By Adam Haggerty|
Dec 27, 2005
Question...On Garfield, instead of traversing over below the roof a fingercrack keeps going up past a tree, close to the bottom of the roof. Does anyone know what it is, what it is rated, and how easily it is protected?
|By Aaron Costello|
From: Rapid City, SD
Apr 22, 2006
Brent et al.,
Is it possible for the BHCC to convince park rangers to take a day and remove the old, and currently bogus, "No Trespassing" signs? If there is one thing that is going to keep people from climbing, it's thinking they may be arrested or fined.
Nov 15, 2010
Looking for information on a variation of Garfield. Instead of traversing to the ledge on P2, there is a crack that goes straight up past a tree to anchors with webbing. Anyone know anything about this crack?
|By Andy Busse|
From: Rapid City, SD
Nov 26, 2010
That crack is IHOP 5.10
Bob Archbold route
|By Justin Kolbeck|
Aug 28, 2011
if you do the garfield variation straight up past the tree it goes without saying to wear a helmet...almost took some rocks to the ol noggin.