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Routes in Gastlosen
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Arête Sud-Ouest S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Chemin Perdu 5c S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elsa 6c S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Hello Marco 6a S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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L'escalier des Aigles 4c S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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La balade du chamois 4c S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Luna Park 6a+ S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Rêve de marmotte 5a S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 980 ft (297 m), 10 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | G. Buchs and H. Jaquet, 2000 |
| Page Views: | 1,011 total · 10/month |
| Shared By: | ARK on Aug 21, 2015 |
| Admins: | Dan Flynn, Mark P. |
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Description
Elsa is characterized by technical slabby moves on small crimps which are occasionally non-existent. Although the climbing is awesome, the bolt placement occasionally makes the route artificially more challenging.
The route is very well bolted and although there are a few other bolted lines on the face it's pretty hard to get lost.
P1+2 6a:
Slab moves broken up by ledges that are a little chossy. Pitch 2 finishes at a sizeable ledge.
P3 6b:
There are a few different routes with belays at this ledge. Do not take the route on the far right (that is a 4c on La voie normale). The one you want is the well bolted route left of that one.
P4 6b+:
Tough slab moves on super solid rock, possibly the crux of the route.
P5 6b:
Continue out right below the big overhang.
P6 6a+:
Head left into a corner for some cool dihedral moves and then out left of the corner to the belay.
P7 6b+:
More hard slab moves! Good crimps for most of it, but gets tough when they disappear. Finish in a wide crack with some blocks.
P8 6c:
Head left out of the crack onto some more slabs broken up by ledges. Maybe not actually harder that the 6b+ pitches.
P9 6b:
A short pitch out left and up a bit. Watch out for some loose rock on the ledges.
P10 6b:
Solid crimps for most of this last pitch. Awesome view at the top! You can see to the Wildstrubel, Glacier de la Plaine Morte, Wildhorn, les Diablerets and even further on a good day (maybe even to the Matterhorn).
Descent:
About 20m north of the summit there is a rappel anchor and you get down in 2x20m rappels (we did it in one with a 70m rope). Stay high on the ridge and follow a trail north that is marked by cairns. You will pass several gulleys on the right, but don't try to descend into them. Instead stay along the top until you hit a pass covered with tall grass. Head down here and at the base you will hit the white-red-white trail that you saw on the approach. Follow it south back to the parking lot or base of the climb.
The route is very well bolted and although there are a few other bolted lines on the face it's pretty hard to get lost.
P1+2 6a:
Slab moves broken up by ledges that are a little chossy. Pitch 2 finishes at a sizeable ledge.
P3 6b:
There are a few different routes with belays at this ledge. Do not take the route on the far right (that is a 4c on La voie normale). The one you want is the well bolted route left of that one.
P4 6b+:
Tough slab moves on super solid rock, possibly the crux of the route.
P5 6b:
Continue out right below the big overhang.
P6 6a+:
Head left into a corner for some cool dihedral moves and then out left of the corner to the belay.
P7 6b+:
More hard slab moves! Good crimps for most of it, but gets tough when they disappear. Finish in a wide crack with some blocks.
P8 6c:
Head left out of the crack onto some more slabs broken up by ledges. Maybe not actually harder that the 6b+ pitches.
P9 6b:
A short pitch out left and up a bit. Watch out for some loose rock on the ledges.
P10 6b:
Solid crimps for most of this last pitch. Awesome view at the top! You can see to the Wildstrubel, Glacier de la Plaine Morte, Wildhorn, les Diablerets and even further on a good day (maybe even to the Matterhorn).
Descent:
About 20m north of the summit there is a rappel anchor and you get down in 2x20m rappels (we did it in one with a 70m rope). Stay high on the ridge and follow a trail north that is marked by cairns. You will pass several gulleys on the right, but don't try to descend into them. Instead stay along the top until you hit a pass covered with tall grass. Head down here and at the base you will hit the white-red-white trail that you saw on the approach. Follow it south back to the parking lot or base of the climb.
Location
For details see the book Gastlosen.ch.
From Jaun take the road that goes east of the Gastlosen and follow it a few kilometers until a road branches right with a sign labeled "Grat". Take this turn and continue to follow signs to Chalet Grat. Before you reach the Chalet you will cross a tiny stream twice and there will be a parking area after the second crossing. This is the Oberberg parking area and it costs 7 CHF to park.
There are 2 trails from the parking area to the Gastlosen. Take the northernmost one, which will be on your right. Continue on this trail for ~10 min and it will be crossed by a white-red-white marked trail. Do not take the white-red-white, but cross it and continue directly up hill. In another ~10 min you will enter some scree at the base of mountain. Traverse left along the base until you see the approach gulley below the Glattenwandspitze. There is some easy, but loose scrambling (protected by a few bolts) up this gulley to the base of the route, which is marked by "Elsa" in blue paint.
From Jaun take the road that goes east of the Gastlosen and follow it a few kilometers until a road branches right with a sign labeled "Grat". Take this turn and continue to follow signs to Chalet Grat. Before you reach the Chalet you will cross a tiny stream twice and there will be a parking area after the second crossing. This is the Oberberg parking area and it costs 7 CHF to park.
There are 2 trails from the parking area to the Gastlosen. Take the northernmost one, which will be on your right. Continue on this trail for ~10 min and it will be crossed by a white-red-white marked trail. Do not take the white-red-white, but cross it and continue directly up hill. In another ~10 min you will enter some scree at the base of mountain. Traverse left along the base until you see the approach gulley below the Glattenwandspitze. There is some easy, but loose scrambling (protected by a few bolts) up this gulley to the base of the route, which is marked by "Elsa" in blue paint.
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