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Ellery Dam Spillway Crag Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

L › R R › L A › Z

	Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
	Dominant Partner TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Ellery Arête S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Gold Mind T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Guilt of the Fisherman T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Roof-to-Dihedral T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Triple Ripple T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unknown A T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Unknown Bulge T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Unknown Dihedral T,TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Unknown thin crack T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
	Unknown Tips Layback T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

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Elevation:	9,500 ft
GPS:	37.93656, -119.22827 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	11,260 total · 107/month
Shared By:	Bruce Morris on Aug 13, 2015
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Spillway Crag is a 60-foot high jumble of rock about a 10-minute 1/4 mile walk east of (and level with) the Ellery Dam. The prominent "Gold Mind" crack (5.9) is in the center of the formation with the 4-bolt "Ellery Arete" (5.11a) sport route located immediately to the right. The "Spillway Arete" (5.10d) no longer exists at the far west end of the crag. The 4 protection bolts and the double-bolt anchor on top were all destroyed when the entire front face of the arete collapsed probably due to snow during the winter. What remains is a lower-angle slab arete that has yet to be retrobolted.

Getting There

Park at the dirt pull out on US 120 a little north of the Ellery Dam. Walk across the the Rhinedollar Dam and then out a dirt road leading east for about a quarter mile. The Spillway Crag is the first cliff you will come to above the road to your right.

12 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ellery Dam Spillway Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b 4 ● Roof-to-Dihedral Trad, TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 28 ● Gold Mind Trad, TR
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a 10 ● Crack Trad
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b 4 ● Unknown Dihedral Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 21 ● Ellery Arête Sport