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Elizabeth Furnace

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Buzzard Rocks 
Talking Headwall 

Elizabeth Furnace Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 1,000'
Location: 38.94656, -78.30231 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,245
Administrators: Shawn Heath, Jake Jones, Aaron James Parlier, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: franciscov on Nov 22, 2007  with updates from NatP

79° | 62°
Memorial Day

80° | 61°

84° | 60°

80° | 61°

78° | 62°

78° | 61°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
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The ridge at Buzzard Rocks


Elizabeth Furnace is divided into two sections. Buzzard Rocks and the Talking Headwall. Buzzard rock offers slab climbing with great exposure to the valley below. The Talking Headwall is at the base of the valley and offers big overhangs on friendly jugs. You're not going to find a lifetime of climbing at either crag but you can find some quality moderate routes in a beautiful setting.

If you want to take a break from climbing take a dip in Passage Creek. There are some great swimming holes and the cool water temps are great in the summer. There are hundreds of miles of hiking trails in the George Washington Forest. For the fishermen out there Passage creek is a stocked creek, and offers some great fly or bait fishing.

Don't forget to stop at Waterlick Grocery and show your support to the locals. The owner supports climbing and sells light gear. Anything you need to know about the Elizabeth Furnace/Fort Valley area can be found here. I've also heard the burritos are fantastic!

Getting There 

From the East-
Take I-66 West to Route 55 West towards Front Royal. Stay on 55 West until the town of Waterlick. Turn left onto Powells Fort Road (Route 678). Drive about 1.2 miles on 678 then turn left onto Mountain Road (Route 619).
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail head
Trail head

Climbing Season

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

33 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Elizabeth Furnace

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Elizabeth Furnace:
Three Amigos Double Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Buzzard Rocks
Three Amigos Direct   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Buzzard Rocks
Angry Muppets   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 40'   Talking Headwall
Failure to Communicate   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buzzard Rocks
Kimberly   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Buzzard Rocks
Raising Arizona   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Buzzard Rocks
Anonymous Flake Right   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 100'   Buzzard Rocks
Rather be Sk8boarding   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Buzzard Rocks
I Love Big Jugs   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Melungian Brotherhood   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Buzzard Rocks
Ass Cannibal   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 130'   Buzzard Rocks
Half and Half   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   Buzzard Rocks
Pulp Friction   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Buzzard Rocks
The Bulge   5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 100'   Buzzard Rocks
Ne Plus Ultra   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Fortis   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Pure Energy   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Talking Headwall
Big Balls   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Talking Headwall
Foops   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Talking Headwall
Leading Should Feel This Way   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Talking Headwall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Elizabeth Furnace

Featured Route For Elizabeth Furnace
Rock Climbing Photo: Owen finishing out on the namesakes flake.

Anonymous Flake Right 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c  VA : Harrisonburg and NW VA : ... : Buzzard Rocks
Slab climbing to a lone bolt. Clip it and make the crux move of getting to the large flake. Follow the flake up and right placing finger to hand sized gear. Make an anchor on the tree at the summit. Not as hard as it looks from the ground, this is a great route. Bring a 60 meter rope, you'll use most of it....[more]   Browse More Classics in VA

Photos of Elizabeth Furnace Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Trail head for the base/main area
BETA PHOTO: Trail head for the base/main area

Comments on Elizabeth Furnace Add Comment
Show which comments
By J Lederhosen
Mar 27, 2015
This is the best area for Sport and Trad climbing within ~1hr from the NoVA area.

Also great camping option 2mi down the road from the crag, plus fly fishing in the creek and good hiking.
By Katie Hughes
Jul 5, 2015
The waterlick grocery store appears to be closed permanently however I highly recommend Holy Moly Potato Donut shop on Strasburg. You can get donuts made with mashed potatoes (surprisingly awesome) as well as well as beef bulgogi burgers.
By Joe Hurley
Dec 7, 2015
I climbed at Buzzard rocks yesterday and thought I could add some details that would've helped us out.

To get to Buzzard Rocks: Turn left onto Mountain Road to go to Buzzard Rocks. Drive ~1.2 miles to a parking lot on the right side of the road. The lot is labeled "Buzzard Rocks Trail". The trail to get to the crag is an easy 4.0 miles, marked with white "i"s the entire way. It will be obvious when you get to the crag, but hiking to the base of the cliff was tricky since the trail was overgrown. We rappelled to avoid bushwacking.

To get to Talking Headwall: Drive past the turnoff to Mountain Creek about 0.5 miles. Park immediately off of Fort Valley Road as soon as the road first runs parallel to Passage Creek (creek on left, rock face on right).

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