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Bio Luminescent 
Elixir 
Illuminati 

Elixir 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 165'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan McDevitt. Urmas Franosch 2004
Fixed Hardware: 1 Lead Bolt, 2 Anchor Bolts [details]
Page Views: 318
Submitted By: Luke Stefurak on Aug 26, 2013
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BETA PHOTO: Elixir starts up the middle of the photo and stays...

Description 

WOW!!! This route is a stunner. Start up easy terrain on sweet horizontals before you pull over onto a slab. Enjoy the warmup because soon enough the holds start shrinking and you are presented with the first of many cruxes. Weave your way up the wall and eventually make hard moves to a dihedral system out left. Savor a few bolts of easy climbing before confronted with a final long cruxy section. This route is super technical and just keeps delivering. Ends on an obvious ledge. If you still want more you can link this into a the finish of Illuminati. The extension requires a 70m rope and adds 20 meters of 12b.


Location 

This route goes up the right side of the main wall. Start just to the right of a black streak up some horiztonal breaks.


Protection 

18 bolts to a double ring anchor. To descend with one rope you must rappel to the right to the Bio Luminescent anchor. Cleaning the draws below the BL anchor is a pain since they are way off to the side.



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