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Middle Earth 
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Elfin Warrior 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ British: E6 6b [details]
FA: EFR,JSt,'08
New Route: Yes
Season: Spring, fall, Summer until 3 p.m.
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 19, 2008
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The mighty Saruman conjures all evils to fight the...

Description 

Climbs the big roof on the left hand side of the cliff. Tricky sequential moves at the second bolt and a cool move to an undercling then hard moves over the roof lead to a no hands rest. If not for the no hander it might get 3 stars. The slightly overhanging second half is no give away and involves palming up the rounded edge of a shallow corner then a hard traverse right to a huge jug. The upper section is the polar opposite of the first 25 feet.


Location 

Starts at the right edge of the big roof you walk under when you get to the base of the cliff.


Protection 

Bolts, 4 permadraws



Photos of Elfin Warrior Slideshow Add Photo
This big dog is gettin' off the porch for the second time!
This big dog is gettin' off the porch for the seco...
Vince Bates at one of the crux moves below the roof crux.
Vince Bates at one of the crux moves below the roo...
Jimbo making his way to the third clip.  It looks scary but it is really not too bad.
Jimbo making his way to the third clip. It looks ...
The evil Saruman draws on his levitation powers - aka footwork - to vanquish the second battle to be fought with the Elfin Warrior.
The evil Saruman draws on his levitation powers - ...
Comments on Elfin Warrior Add Comment
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By Joe Kreidel
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 14, 2011

The top of this route is devious. I certainly felt more like an elf than a warrior on this one.

By JesseJ
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 4, 2011

Pulling the low roof is really fun, then a full rest before tricky sloping rails and some strong moves to the chains. Felt more like a boulder problem right before a short climb.