Elephant head is an easy-access crag for short cli...
One of New Hampshire's pint-sized gems, Elephant's Head is a west facing, 1 pitch dome-like crag situated up and to the right above Rte. 302 just as you go north through Crawford Notch.
Looking back from little Saco Lake after you pass through the notch, it resembles an Elephant's visage with one of NH's classic 1 pitch routes, The Trunk (5.4 - 5.5), heading straight up the broad arete of the trunk following flakes and cracks.
This fun little crag has all the basics: great rock, good pro, a picturesque setting and a quaint quality of exposure and position...right above the road. This of course encourages the requisite tourist rubbernecking and Kodak moments and beginners (and vets) feel heroic as cars pass directly underneath their feet.
An afternoon's suggested outing is leading up one of the "Trunk" routes (5.5 or so) and then throwing a top-rope on some harder moderates down the "cheek / eye" (5.7 - 5.8).
High frequency of climbing school use and there are new(er) Bolts at the top.
From North Conway, follow Rte. 302 North - past Attitash Ski Area and the town of Bartlett - continuing into Crawford Notch State Park. About 21 miles past Bartlett, you drive right up through the "notch".
Parking can be found immediately on both the right and the left or near the train station / Saco Lake.
This has one of the shortest approaches on the planet.
The short-steep path to the base starts at a gray-and-white banded boulder on the side of the road just underneath the crag. Step up on the boulder's right side and follow it steeply up and to the base.
From the top, descend the well worn trail - part of the AMC Hiking Trail Overlook - back and then down to the left to Saco Lake.
Or...to avoid the scramble back up to your packs, a single rope rap can be down the "cheek" side past a tree and some ledges to the base.
A standard rack is good with some modern small gear for lower section. Routes on the "cheek" side are sparse and usually TR'ed.
Browse More Classics in Elephant's Head
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Elephant's Head:
Featured Route For Elephant's Head
5.9+ PG13 NH
: Elephant's Head
from the left of the trunk and the eye, move up over a small overhang on small incut holds, protect with thin nuts (read:rps work best) and trend left slightly and commit to thin face moves to a rest and more thin nuts on your right in a small flare. Move straight up on moderate ground following horizontal cracks past a final well protected overlap to the top and mixed gear and bolt anchor...nice job!!!!...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
|Comments on Elephant's Head
|By john strand|
From: southern colo
Nov 21, 2009
Really nice, easy climbing
|By patrick donahue|
Oct 23, 2010
does anyone know if there is any other climbing here other then these 3 climbs?