This bold route tackles the steep knobby headwall straight on. Start on the right side at a curving right facing corner. Climb this a short ways until you reach an obvious flake. Pull over the bulge and continue up the flake as the rock deteriorates in quality. At the top of the flake you will reach the crux traverse which is protected by a lonely 1/4" bolt. Step across the face to the left, to gain a shitty seam with a pin in it a few feet up. More hard climbing up the seam leads to basketball size knobs below the overhang. Move left again and establish a belay at the bottom of the crack.
The second pitch is filthy with lichen but spectacular and fun nonetheless. Hand jams and huge juggy knobs lead through the wild overhang until eventually the angle lessens and you gain a chimney/groove which leads the rest of the way to the top. This pitch really needs some more traffic so it cleans up. By rapping in from the top you can forgo the sketchy first pitch and just climb the second; which if it cleans up will probably be one of the best pitches of 5.10a in the universe.
Pro to 3" with several small wires and your smallest microcams for the 5.10 seam, and extra hand size stuff for the belay and pitch 2.
Oh, and a bolt kit to replace that relic protecting the crux.
|By Bryan G|
From: San Jose
Mar 2, 2013
There is also a new line maybe 60ft to the left of Elephantiasis, I spied a bolt above a roof in the knobby stuff. I'm not sure, but I'm guessing this is the upper pitches of Elephant Man (Cedar Wright, Renan Ozturk, 2004) which connects the Worst Error to the summit. Looks fun.