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Elephant Talk
5.11b YDS 6c French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Sport, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | Kurt Smith and Tucker Tech (Oct, '88) |
Page Views: | 970 total · 7/month |
Shared By: | Bryan G on Oct 4, 2012 |
Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit climbingyosemite.com/ and nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Elephant Talk is located on the far left side of the top of the formation. It is approached by rappelling in from above. The Reid guide has a pretty good topo showing the distinctive looking boulder and trees at the top. The rap anchors are down over the side in a little gully next to a flake.
The rock over on the upper section of the East Face is very different than most of the Elephant Rock granite. It is more like the rock in Joshua Tree or Alabama hills with great friction and lots of patina and edges. There are some large rotten flakes on the lower and upper portions of the climb which detract from the quality, but the bulk of the route consists of "hero climbing" on good edges up a golden head-wall with spectacular exposure.
The climb has a bit of an indistinct start. If you are mini-traxion soloing the route, start climbing just below the lowest bolt. If you want to rap in and lead out, then I guess you can build an anchor down under the roof and to the left (the start of the Guru Cracks) and then climb up rotten flakes leading up and right to the first bolt. The crux is in the middle of the route with another crux at the end where you move over into some more large flakes. Finish up a gully back to the bolted anchor.
The rock over on the upper section of the East Face is very different than most of the Elephant Rock granite. It is more like the rock in Joshua Tree or Alabama hills with great friction and lots of patina and edges. There are some large rotten flakes on the lower and upper portions of the climb which detract from the quality, but the bulk of the route consists of "hero climbing" on good edges up a golden head-wall with spectacular exposure.
The climb has a bit of an indistinct start. If you are mini-traxion soloing the route, start climbing just below the lowest bolt. If you want to rap in and lead out, then I guess you can build an anchor down under the roof and to the left (the start of the Guru Cracks) and then climb up rotten flakes leading up and right to the first bolt. The crux is in the middle of the route with another crux at the end where you move over into some more large flakes. Finish up a gully back to the bolted anchor.
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