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Elephant Crack 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,975
Submitted By: saxfiend on Jan 31, 2007
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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Part 2

Description 

At 5.6 in the guide, Elephant Crack is probably the most sandbagged route at Palisades. The gear placements on the face are small and not easy to find, and the roof traverse is strenuous with good potential for an unpleasant pendulum fall. This is an excellent route, but not a good choice for novice leaders.

Starting on a slightly slabby face, climb to a corner under the roof. Underclinging the roof, traverse right about 25' to an outside corner and escape up the rain gully to the top.


Location 

In the Fire Tower Wall section, not far right of the descent gully. Starts below an obvious large roof.


Protection 

Small gear (mainly nuts) for the face section; small to medium cams for the roof traverse. Sling trees for anchors at the top.



Photos of Elephant Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Starting up the route
Starting up the route
Looking up at Elephant Crack
BETA PHOTO: Looking up at Elephant Crack
Top-roping from anchors.
Top-roping from anchors.
John Vasik cleaning Elephant Crack
John Vasik cleaning Elephant Crack
Starting the roof traverse
Starting the roof traverse
Part 3
Part 3
Part 1 ... <br /> <br />Top-roped. We tied off on a tree at the top (jacket or something to keep the rope from rubbing)
Part 1 ...

Top-roped. We tied off on a tree at th...
Anchors!
Anchors!
Comments on Elephant Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By gus
From: Alabama
Oct 22, 2007

time to argue! its 5.6.

pro is straight forward--place in crack above your head before committing to traverse.

traverse is EASY. Good hands in crack and lots of positive placements for feet. Once at end of traverse there are jugs to grab.

Only caveat is you really cannot fall from traverse as you will smack the slab below if you didn't place pro far out in crack before starting to traverse. For that reason its not a good climb for beginning leader...

By Chuck Parks
From: Atlanta, GA
Feb 4, 2008
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V S 4b

The crux of this route favors those with a long reach (either tall, or ape-y, or both). People with a wingspan over 6 ft. will find it easier to place safe, solid protection further out the roof before committing to the crux. It will also be a bit easier to climb the crux.

I'm not saying the route is super-hard for the shorties out there, but I wouldn't be surprised if difference in reach is a factor in the 5.6 vs. 5.7+ debate.

By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
Jul 18, 2011

I'm with Gus....5.6.

By David Logan
From: Tuscaloosa, Al
Feb 15, 2012

5.6 for sure. Everyone rates it higher because they freak out about the potential pendelum.

By Nathan Self
Mar 7, 2012
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ MVS 4b

New anchors at the top.
One of the tallest routes at Palisades.
Super fun.

By Brad "Stonyman" Killough
Administrator
From: Alabama
May 9, 2012

Such a fun lead for an intermediate climber, not for novice.

By TurtleHippy
Jun 26, 2012

Elephant crack seems to be abit harder for taller folks. I had a rough time with the first move onto the roof, but after last winter my core is a lot more weak than I'd like. I'd say 5.7, but I could see it either way. NEW Rappel anchors at the top!

By Khowe765
From: Knoxville, TN
May 19, 2013

Route now has bolts, which are easily accessible for top-roping. I would suggest that you use webbing or slings to extend the rope lower than the bolts, I did not last time, and suffered a significant amount of rope rub on the rocks near the top.

By Ryan Cantor
Feb 26, 2014

Fun Route! Definitely a must at Palisades.