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Dome Boulder, The 
First Buttress 
Fourth Buttress 
Second Buttress 
Third Buttress 
Topknot 

Elephant Buttresses 


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Lat, Long: 40.0125, -105.308 Map
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Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001

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BETA PHOTO: The Elephant Buttresses. Most routes start off th...

Description 

The four blocky towers known as the Elephant Buttresses lie just to the right of the Dome. They are numbered one through four from left to right. Almost all the routes are trad; no sport routes here. Some routes have old fixed pins; not many have bolts. An irrigation water pipe runs along the base of these crags.

Be careful of poison ivy; this area has it in abundance!

Some of the classic routes include: Tough Situation (9+) and Classic Finger Crack (9) on the Second Buttress; Standard Route (7+), Left Wing (10), and FM (11) on the Third Buttress, and Northwest Face (8) on the Fourth Buttress.


Getting There 

Approach as for the Dome. Park in a small pullout on the right 0.5 miles up the canyon, or in a large parking area on the left. Cross the bridge over the creek and turn right. Follow the new climber's access trail up to the aqueduct. Turn right and walk along a trail to the water pipe; watch out for poison ivy! Continue along the water pipe to the crag you want to climb. The pipe ends at a water tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress.


Descents 

There are several ways to descend from the top of these crags:

  • The easiest walk-off is to head left (north) toward the Dome, and descend a trail down to the aqueduct just left of the First Buttress.

  • You can scramble down between the Second and Third Buttress to a tree atop Pine Tree Route, and rappel 90' back to the water pipe.

  • If the water level is low enough, you can descend to a tunnel between the Third and Fourth Buttress, and walk through the tunnel back to the water pipe. Be prepared for darkness and wet legs/feet!

  • You can downclimb the steep, 4th-class gully between the Second and Third Buttress; tricky in spots and not recommended for novices.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Elephant Buttresses:
Flash Dihedral (Knapp Version)   5.7     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 90 feet   First Buttress
Standard Route   5.7+     Trad, 2 pitches   Third Buttress
Standard Variation   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 175 feet   Third Buttress
Northwest Face   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch   Fourth Buttress
Mojo Rising   5.9     Trad, 2 pitches   Third Buttress
Classic Finger Crack   5.9     Trad, 1 pitch   Second Buttress
The Heartland   5.9+     Trad, 2 pitches, 210 feet   Fourth Buttress
Zolar Czakl   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 70 feet   Fourth Buttress
Tough Situation   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Second Buttress
Zolar Czakl (Direct)   5.10a R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Fourth Buttress
Ah Maw   5.10a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Third Buttress
Left Wing   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Third Buttress
Flake   5.10c R     Trad, TR, 1 pitch   Fourth Buttress
Wingtip   5.10c PG13     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65 feet   Third Buttress
What's Up?   5.10d     Trad, 2 pitches   Third Buttress
FM   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch   Third Buttress
Browse More Classics in Elephant Buttresses

Featured Route For Elephant Buttresses
Left Wing follows the L facing dihedral and angles up and to the left.

Left Wing 5.10c  CO : Boulder Canyon : ... : Third Buttress
Cool route with interesting moves. My limited trad experience kept my evaluation to a modest two stars.The route starts about halfway up the 4th class gully between the second and third buttresses. The climb itself is on the third Buttress. Begin by traversing right across a ledge into the obvious dihedral. Some small, good placements will get you up to a new bolt that protects a few feet below the roof and the first crux. Clip this and then a fixed Friend in the overhead crack. My buddy w...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO


Photos of Elephant Buttresses Slideshow Add Photo
Second Elephant Buttress <br /> <br />1. Tough Situation (5.9+) <br />2. Classic Finger Crack (5.9)

BETA PHOTO: Second Elephant Buttress

1. Tough Situation (5.9+...


Third Buttress <br />1. Standard Route (7+) <br />2. West Face (7) <br /> <br />Fourth Buttress <br />3. Flake (10c) <br />4. Zolar Czakl (10a) <br />5. Northwest Face (8+)

BETA PHOTO: Third Buttress
1. Standard Route (7+)
2. West Face...


Elephant Buttresses panorama.

Elephant Buttresses panorama.


Comments on Elephant Buttresses Add Comment
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By Kevin Currigan
From: Lakewood
Aug 18, 2003

Ya gotta do the tunnel at least once for the experience. I thought it was great and I am not fond of caves.

By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Aug 11, 2008

Ok, I feel kinda dumb for asking this but I was at the Elephant Buttress this night and we headed up a chimney onsight somewhere in the vicinity of the 1st maybe 2nd pinnacle, but I don't think it was the chimney listed in the 2nd pinnacle's list. We headed up a chimney until it got too wide then climbed up a crack on the south side of the chimney. The chimney itself was probably .7- but the crack was reaching into the .9 territory. Does this sound familiar?

By Phil Lauffen
From: Boulder
Aug 11, 2008

Actually after looking at the picture again I realize I wasn't really on a ROUTE. We ended up chimneying up the crack kinda directly between the 1st and 2nd buttress, then squirming up the crack on the right. Weird route. Anyone know if it's got a name?

By Ivan Rezucha
From: Boulder, CO
May 16, 2009

There is currently a very nice, large and extremely clear photo of the Elephant Buttresses at the Boulder Library as part of the ditch exhibit. All of the popular climbs are very visible. It's worth a look. The history of the Silver Lake Ditch and the other ditches is very interesting. There's a working model of the two "tram lines" used to move the pipes during the 2008 rebuild of the pipe below Elephant Buttresses.

By Greg Howland
Aug 15, 2009

I lost a BD ATC-Guide two weeks ago or so up in Boulder Canyon. I think I lost it around the Dome/Elephant Butresses area (but could be somewhere else). I'm just a poor college kid with no money and now no belay device. If you found it and returned it, I would be extremely grateful and would be more than happy to reward you with some beer.