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White Fandango T 

Elegant Monkey 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 338
Submitted By: Kurtz on Jul 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: Elegant Monkey

Description 

Follow the obvious open-book corner and crack. Make sure to get a bomber piece in before the first ledge. The crux is at the top. Place pro thoughtfully to avoid dislodging potentially loose rocks in a fall. There are often a lot of loose stones right on the edge as you top out.

Location 

To the right and uphill of the cave-like overhang start for Friday the 13th, Triple Direct, and Fool's Mate. Walk off climbers trail left (or right).

Protection 

Standard rack. Cams to 3". Suitable trees for toprope anchors.


Photos of Elegant Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Top of Elegant Monkey.  Note loose stones.
BETA PHOTO: Top of Elegant Monkey. Note loose stones.

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By Kurtz
Jul 13, 2012

Not sure I 100% trust the pro at the top (crux) since most of the placements are in cracks between the bedrock and blocks that don't seem to be totally solid. A hard fall on a cam might pop a block loose.
By Danmg89
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I've heard there was some rockfall from the top dihedral a few years back that make the final 8-10 feet more strenuous. Lots of hollow sounding rock, hard to find confidence inspiring pro and sure to get your heart going through the top moves, but a unique climb.
By GabeO
From: Denver, CO
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Definitely significantly harder than 5.6 if you avoid all the teetering blocks on this. Both my partner and I thought this was harder than Pegasus.