Login with Facebook
Main Walls
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acid Reign T,TR 
Arrowhead T,TR 
Block of Ages T 
Cat-o-Nine-Tails T 
Catapult T,TR 
Catatonia T 
Chimney-Top Corner  T,TR 
Claw Marks T 
Danzig TR 
Elegant Monkey T,TR 
Fool's Mate T,TR 
Friday the Thirteenth T,TR 
Golden Book T,TR 
Imperial Wizard TR 
Jaguar TR 
Millions of Dead Dogs TR 
Mind Bender Direct T,TR 
Pegasus T,TR 
Phantasmagoria T,TR 
Pink Elephants T 
Realm of the Senses T,TR 
Saturday Night Special T,TR 
Triple Direct T 
White Fandango T 

Elegant Monkey 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
Page Views: 478
Submitted By: Kurtz on Jul 13, 2012

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Elegant Monkey


Follow the obvious open-book corner and crack. Make sure to get a bomber piece in before the first ledge. The crux is at the top. Place pro thoughtfully to avoid dislodging potentially loose rocks in a fall. There are often a lot of loose stones right on the edge as you top out.


To the right and uphill of the cave-like overhang start for Friday the 13th, Triple Direct, and Fool's Mate. Walk off climbers trail left (or right).


Standard rack. Cams to 3". Suitable trees for toprope anchors.

Photos of Elegant Monkey Slideshow Add Photo
Top of Elegant Monkey.  Note loose stones.
BETA PHOTO: Top of Elegant Monkey. Note loose stones.

Comments on Elegant Monkey Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kurtz
Jul 13, 2012

Not sure I 100% trust the pro at the top (crux) since most of the placements are in cracks between the bedrock and blocks that don't seem to be totally solid. A hard fall on a cam might pop a block loose.
By Danmg89
From: Fort Collins, CO
May 14, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

I've heard there was some rockfall from the top dihedral a few years back that make the final 8-10 feet more strenuous. Lots of hollow sounding rock, hard to find confidence inspiring pro and sure to get your heart going through the top moves, but a unique climb.
By GabeO
From: New Haven, CT
Aug 26, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

Definitely significantly harder than 5.6 if you avoid all the teetering blocks on this. Both my partner and I thought this was harder than Pegasus.
By Russ Keane
Jun 19, 2015

This is a fun lead-- Well protected, I thought -- even though I know what people are saying about the blockiness of the pro. Some spots were less bomber than others. If you've done alpine-leading where you need to judge each placement and you need to be creative, you can protect this line easily.

Kind of pumpy and steep at the top. Very good test for an established 5.6 leader. If you are still new to leading trad, be careful. It's kind of heady up there.
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!