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Elefantenhimmel (pt. 2) 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Ruth & Kaspar Ochsner, Felix Meier
Page Views: 831
Submitted By: Braxtron on Apr 12, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Going horizontal @ the crux of Elefantenhimmel.

Description 

After the 5.5 'approach pitch' comes this gem. Incredibly fun tufa pulling on a gradually increasing angle to a no-hands rest between the wall and the elefant's trunk. Then it's a short, strenuous sequence to turn the roof and reach the anchor. Your reward for clipping the 'biners? A 20 meter (no joke) swing fit for a king!

Location 

On the right-side of the cave. Runs up the black streak, where 'Elefantenhimmel' is painted on the rock, slightly trending left.

Protection 

Bolts, 4 point anchor with 1 permanent, SS carabiner.


Photos of Elefantenhimmel (pt. 2) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola on Elefantenhimmel (Clip #1)
Nicola on Elefantenhimmel (Clip #1)
Rock Climbing Photo: Ram high on Elefantenhimmel.
Ram high on Elefantenhimmel.
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola on Elefantenhimmel (Clip #3)
Nicola on Elefantenhimmel (Clip #3)
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola starting on Elefantenhimmel
Nicola starting on Elefantenhimmel
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola on Elefantenhimmel
Nicola on Elefantenhimmel
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola on Elefantenhimmel (Clip #2)
Nicola on Elefantenhimmel (Clip #2)
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola on Elefantenhimmel
Nicola on Elefantenhimmel
Rock Climbing Photo: Nicola on Elefantenhimmel, resting before the crux...
Nicola on Elefantenhimmel, resting before the crux...

Comments on Elefantenhimmel (pt. 2) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Braxtron
From: ...
Apr 19, 2011

Note: due to extreme seepage in/around the anchor, one of the carabiners (the aluminum one) has been nearly corroded-through (as of April 2011). I sacrificed one of my own as a temporary fix, but it will undoubtedly suffer the same fate. The only remedy seems to be another stainless steel carabiner.
By Shawn Heath
Administrator
From: Forchheim, Germany
Jun 10, 2011

Wow! That sounds like an amazing route! What exactly do you mean by a 20 meter swing?
By Braxtron
From: ...
Apr 27, 2012

If the route is cleaned (rope is only running through the anchor), one can TR up to a bolt or two past the first anchor and let go for a really big swing. 20 m is not much of an exaggeration, if at all.
By WAGbag
Administrator
From: Denver, CO
Oct 7, 2012

Marginal route in my opinion. Do not clean by tramming in. Clean by TR only.

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