This route is 30' slightly uphill from Nina. It is characterized by a widening crack that eventually thins and angles slightly left to meet another crack for a stem near the visible anchors. Start with hands, which leads to large fists. I have big hands and could barely get enough friction with both fists jammed to pull myself up. The wide section narrows after 20', at which point a stem with some finger action will lead to the anchors. 60' A good climb for someone with a thin rack.
Camalots: 2 #2, 2 #3, 1 #3.5, 1 or 2 finger-size TCUs
Starting up Electronic Battleship
Jens on E.B.
In the midst of the wide stuff- size 11 feet and e...
|By Craig Quincy|
Oct 8, 2002
I would suggest bringing three or four #3.5 camalots or #4 Friends and maybe some other additional cams. The wide fist/off-fist section is very parallel and goes on for 20 feet. If you have small hands like me, reaching back in the crack won't help and it's hard to make upward progress with your feet slipping out, so the extra gear will be welcome. On top rope, I found it much easier to just lay back this section.
From: Provo, Utah
Oct 9, 2008
1#2 2#3's and 2#4's in camalot sizes are what I like to have for this one
From: Arvada, CO
Nov 19, 2009
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b
"old style" #4 BD worked great at crux, my new C4 was little tipped out.
|By Jesse Morehouse|
Nov 24, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b
The wide middle was rattle fists but not quite offwidth for me. A good way to get worn out prior to the thin finish! Worth doing for sure. I had 2 #3.5 camalots and was thankful for them.