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Bitty Buttress
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A's Jax T 
Bitty Buttress T 
Buzz, The S 
Electricity T,S 
Hand is Quicker than the Eye, The T,S 
Holy Ascension T,TR 
Jaguary T 
Jam Left T 
Jitters, The S 
Lorax, The S 
Mirage (aka Right Crack) T 
Moby Dike S 
Peach Monkey S 
Peapod T 
Return To Sender S 
Reveille T,S 
Rise and Shine S 
South T 
Spins, The T,S 
Treetop Landing T 
Welcome Home S 

Electricity 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hare, Clay Wadman, 1991
Page Views: 407
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on Jan 10, 2004

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Mark into the first of several cruxes on P1 of Ele...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Electricity starts about 50 ft uphill from the log at the start of the Bitty Buttress route and just left of Return to Sender. In essence, it starts just above the short bolted route "Welcome Home".

P1. launches up moderate, but dirty rock to a nut placement well below the first bolt. Chase a line of bolts up steep and ocassionally friable stone to an awkward move into a corner. The corner takes thin gear up to the anchor. This pitch has some powerful, awkward, but interesting moves on it and stakes a fair claim to 5.12a.

P2. steps right via a bolt into an unpleasant sequence on sharp and friable stone. Moving up here needs a #2 Friend or Camalot, which will take up the only good slot for the hands. Chase the crack left on good stone that turns dubious near the end. This pitch was acceptable to follow and unpleasant to lead.

Overall, I'd probably not rush back to Electricity, however, a bolt placed low on P1 would make it a two star pitch for sure.

Protection 

This is a two pitch route. Bring a dozen draws, a medium rack with nuts and cams up to a #3 Friend or Camalot. Bring a 50 meter rope to rap off P1 or walk off the top if you do both pitches. The walk off entails a short 3rd class scramble, not as bad as it looks.


Photos of Electricity Slideshow Add Photo
Upgraded anchor at the end of Pitch 1.
BETA PHOTO: Upgraded anchor at the end of Pitch 1.

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By Tzilla Rapdrilla
Jan 23, 2009

The anchor at the top of the first pitch was upgraded last weekend courtesy of Climbing Magazine and the Anchor Replacement Initiative. The old very manky webbing is gone and chain and rings are now in place.