Electricity  5.12a

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Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches, 150 feet Consensus:  5.12a [details] FA:  Dan Hare, Clay Wadman, 1991 Submitted By:  Richard M. Wright on Jan 10, 2004 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

Mark into the first of several cruxes on P1 of Ele...

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Seasonal Raptor Closure In Effect MORE INFO >>> The seasonal raptor closure is in effect February 1, 2013 through July 31, 2013 at Blob Rock and Bitty Buttress. Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

Electricity starts about 50 ft uphill from the log at the start of the Bitty Buttress route and just left of Return to Sender. In essence, it starts just above the short bolted route "Welcome Home".

P1. launches up moderate, but dirty rock to a nut placement well below the first bolt. Chase a line of bolts up steep and ocassionally friable stone to an awkward move into a corner. The corner takes thin gear up to the anchor. This pitch has some powerful, awkward, but interesting moves on it and stakes a fair claim to 5.12a.

P2. steps right via a bolt into an unpleasant sequence on sharp and friable stone. Moving up here needs a #2 Friend or Camalot, which will take up the only good slot for the hands. Chase the crack left on good stone that turns dubious near the end. This pitch was acceptable to follow and unpleasant to lead.

Overall, I'd probably not rush back to Electricity, however, a bolt placed low on P1 would make it a two star pitch for sure.

Protection 

This is a two pitch route. Bring a dozen draws, a medium rack with nuts and cams up to a #3 Friend or Camalot. Bring a 50 meter rope to rap off P1 or walk off the top if you do both pitches. The walk off entails a short 3rd class scramble, not as bad as it looks.

Photos of Electricity Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Upgraded anchor at the end of Pitch 1.