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Unknown OW splitter R of electric T 
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Unsorted Routes:

Electric 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: ?
Page Views: 945
Submitted By: claramie on Mar 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (13)
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Lieback or jam it straight up

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Right arching crack through a roof makes for a bouldery start. Tapers down to tips by the time you reach the anchor. Short but tough. Don't grab the chains. Clip off of that last hold.

Location 

Right of Power Line and Tips Lieback.

Protection 

maybe a big piece for the start. 2 #2 camalot, 1 of everything smaller. Maybe 2 .75 or .5 camalot too. two bolt anchor.


Photos of Electric Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Myself on Electric.    Dan Schwarz photo
Myself on Electric. Dan Schwarz photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Electric starts in the right arching hands and get...
BETA PHOTO: Electric starts in the right arching hands and get...
Rock Climbing Photo: Almost there.  The route just doesn't let up.
Almost there. The route just doesn't let up.

Comments on Electric Add Comment
Show which comments
By claramie
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 24, 2012

There is also another crack leading to the same anchor up the right side. Looks to be about 12- at gradually narrows from #1 camalot down to the smallest gear possible while cupping the arete with the right hand. Didn't try it but could be good and easy to TR from the same anchor.
By doligo
Nov 7, 2014

The rack is more like one of each from #3 to .4. Don't try putting a .5 into the splitter from the last good stance - it's too big.
By Brennan Crellin
Administrator
From: Draper, UT
Mar 15, 2015
rating: 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a

I placed one each in this order (BD C4): #4 (from ground), #3 (just over the roof), #2, #1, #0.75, #0.4

If you want to sew it up, take doubles of #1 & #0.75

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