Electric Rats 

This is just around the corner from the wall with Golden Locks, Cake Walk, et al. Great route with great gear and fun moves....it just keeps on going...

I remember the gear being somewhat less than ideal in the first 20'. I could be wrong about that though. Awesome crack climbing above the powerful roof, though.

I would say there is gear...if you wanna hang out and plug it in. Better to boulder up to the ledge and put in a couple of pieces.

Here's the skinny...go up on the first roof, throw a #2 up in the big loose flake so if you go over the falls you won't hit the reef. Once up on the ledge, lay down in an undignified fashion and pull your cam. Step up to the real deal and pop a couple of pieces in. get ready for awkward cranks all the way through the scoop...it's on.

426 said it best!

Bring a #4 and a #5 BD for the upper section; when I think standard rack I stop at #3, I don't usually include these sizes.