Friends over things, outside over inside. Will you go out with us? #OptOutside — Join Us Outside
Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Octopus Garden
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Call Any Vegetable T 
Edible Panties T 
Electric Ball T 
Harry's Crack T 
Monkey Coefficient T 
Octopus Garden in the Shade T,TR 
Pipe Dream T,TR 
Root Canal T 
Unearthly Delights T 

Electric Ball 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13

Type:  Trad, 75'
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c PG13 [details]
FA: S. Young, D. Martin
Page Views: 1,300
Submitted By: John Wilder on Jul 30, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (18)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: Electric Ball Topo

Do not park in the residential neighborhood! Park in the designated lot MORE INFO >>>


A beautiful route with several cruxes and good gear. Be bold on this one, though, as one of the lower cruxes has groundfall potential and the upper one has big air potential.

This route is easily top roped by climbing any of the routes to the left and moving the rope to the anchors on top of this route.


The obvious thin crack system on the right hand side of the wall.


thin gear to #2 camalot

Photos of Electric Ball Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Electric Ball is the twin cracks on the right
BETA PHOTO: Electric Ball is the twin cracks on the right

Comments on Electric Ball Add Comment
Show which comments
By Hamik Mukelyan
From: Pasadena, CA
Sep 1, 2013

With an overcammed BD blue or slightly undercammed yellow and a really good belay--a running backward at full throttle if you peel kind of belay--you might stay off the deck if you blow it at the lower crux. If you don't feel solid just downclimb--the gear and fall would be safe at that point.
By Lina Baker
Jun 1, 2015

Both technical and somewhat burly--this climb packs a great punch! Great benchmark climb for how you progress over the season!
By Raddam6
Sep 5, 2015

Great climb. Don't be a pussy, do the direct finish its classic. This pitch was soft for the grade, I thought.
By Mark Roberts
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 12, 2016

Nice, sustained climbing. Highly recommend a #3 C4 for the low crux.

I was expecting to feel a lot less secure and sketched out placing the second piece after the bottom crux, but you can get a really secure right foot jam in the flaring feature right above the #3 C4. I'm 6' tall and felt quite comfortable stretching out and placing a .4 Camalot and clipping. Technically when that rope is paid out when clipping there is groundfall potential, but just being above your #3 C4 is a safe place to be and quite secure - you can chill, place your piece, chalk and wait until you feel comfortable before you pay out that rope.

The twin cracks above keep you honest, so don't assume your work is over when you've pulled the crux. Technical, funky bottoming finger jams and you can really only place gear in particular places that you often want for your fingers and toes.

Reading the old McLane guidebooks, the line originally finished at the second overlap (after the twin cracks), from which you would build a gear belay and then I have no idea. The direct 10b slab finish was done in the late 90s, and climbs boldly directly above the twin cracks without protection. Alternate finish now seems to climb to the left, the right-most crack that tops out to the left of the twin cracks.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!