Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Eldo sucks AKA the crag blasphemer's thread
View Latest Posts in This Forum or All Forums
Page 4 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
 
Oct 27, 2012
Mashers Tower
this thread is a fishing expedition using the tastiest bait (eldo)
to catch the biggest fish (boulderites)

and of course they're biting like crazy
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Kenan wrote:
If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all. It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah


If you find it fascinating, go for it. It proves nothing either way, although knowing the qualifications of an opinion is useful.

The most I've climbed at a place I've been the least impressed by is Red Rocks. I've ticked a few of the trad classics, I just don't like it. I actually liked the sport climbing Killis disparages there much better! It really makes no sense, the place has all the food groups I normally like, it's just a gut feeling of dislike, or maybe ambivalence.

I would still go there to tick a few of the "undisputed" classics to test once and for all if the place "sucks". But I'm not chomping at the bit for that exercise, there are so many other places I absolutely love.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,382 points
Oct 27, 2012
Stabby
"Where's the good stone!?!"
-J. Bachar, after his first day at Eldo.
Mike Lane
From Centennial, CO
Joined Jan 21, 2006
839 points
Oct 27, 2012
Magic Ed
All I can say about Eldo is that I'm really fortunate to have done most of my climbing there back in the late '60s.

I have to disagree with Tony--Devil's Lake is a gem with the best rock on the planet--it just takes some getting used to.
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Oct 27, 2012
eureka ha
Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?! mozeman
Joined Dec 17, 2010
75 points
Oct 27, 2012
mozeman wrote:
Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?!


All this time, I've been trying to articulate my feelings. There it is, right there.

In all seriousness, every time I go to Eldo, I've gotten on either the routes I learned to lead on, or a 4-star easy classic. And every time, I've encountered either a lot of loose rock, or the route has drastically changed since I last climbed it because of loose rock. I did Calypso maybe a week before that flake fell off, and then about 4 years after the fact. I got to very delicately climb around microwave sized blocks on Gambit. And I climbed the Bastille Crack, which is every bit as good as people say it is. If "4 stars" means "still might kill you on the road" at a suburban crag, you might need to re-evaluate how you hand out stars. These consistent experiences have driven me away from continuing to explore Eldo. I'll take Lumpy any day of the week over that. The reason I hate Eldo is that trying to find people who want to climb at Lumpy, or the Splatte was flippin' impossible because "Eldo is sooo much better". Its not. Its convenient, but if I only have one full day off a week, I'm going to spend it doing something awesome, not, well, Eldo.

Of course, I don't live in south Denver anymore, so the point is moot. Eldo is definitely Boulder's best crag. But it isn't even the best crag in the Front Range.
Brian Scoggins
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,120 points
Oct 27, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
I haven't been to a location where I couldn't find some climbing to enjoy.. NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Oct 27, 2012
HAHHAHA.. this is awesome. Love seeing all the people who are so much on either side of the fence. Eldo definitely rocks. There are some amazing lines at every grade and a super cool setting with a ton of history (and obviously drama as well). Is it world class, no. Probably some world class routes but come on people world class would have to mean its the best of kind for rock and style.... its just not. But it is super fun and very conveniently located. Enjoy Ed Rhine
Joined Jan 18, 2006
2 points
Oct 27, 2012
^Salt Lake City? I'll take the Wasatch over Eldo any day of the week. michaeltarne
Joined Jan 2, 2011
124 points
Oct 27, 2012
reboot wrote:
Name me another area in the US where you have quality climbing before or after work (with some schedule flexibility) almost year around and still have pretty good employment opportunities (which means you can afford to take those trips to actual world class destinations) and social life. That's huge if you are a climber that doesn't just aspire to a dirtbag lifestyle.


Vegas- i live 7 minutes from Red Rock. Its pretty sweet.

Salt Lake City- my friend lives 10-15 minutes from LCC.

I never really understood the appeal of Eldo- sure, there are some good routes, but for the most part, i've never cared for the climbing there. Don't get me wrong- if it was my home crag, i'm sure i'd climb there several days a week, but i'm not really a fan of the rock there for the most part.

That said, I still want to climb the Naked Edge- that thing looks incredible.
John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Feb 1, 2004
2,395 points
Oct 27, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "...
Ed Wright wrote:
I have to disagree with Tony--Devil's Lake is a gem with the best rock on the planet--it just takes some getting used to.

Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin...
Yep, I climbed there for years.
Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Joined Jan 1, 2001
23,667 points
Oct 27, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.
Tony B wrote:
Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin... Yep, I climbed there for years.


me too and +1
NickinCO
From colorado
Joined Sep 17, 2010
239 points
Oct 27, 2012
Mashers Tower
slc vs. boulder?

hahahahaha
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard
CJC wrote:
slc vs. boulder? hahahahaha


Yeah, there is that whole soulless, white bread, capitol of mormon-dom thing going on in SLC. At least my current city is chock full of soul. It happens to be a redneck one, but, you know, them's good people when she comes right down to 'er.

I actually wouldn't mind living either place, climbing-wise.
Colonel Mustard
Joined Sep 13, 2005
1,382 points
Oct 27, 2012
Every time I go to Eldo I Blast.....







Cuz it's soo cool. Anyone ever heard of the Yellow Spur?
American Dankster
From Chattanooga
Joined May 28, 2010
283 points
Oct 28, 2012
Magic Ed
Tony B wrote:
Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin... Yep, I climbed there for years.


Yeah, the rock is only 40 to 80 feet tall but so is the gritstone they rave about in England. You can have a big adventure on 80 feet of rock.
With 1800 routes and 600 boulder problems there is a lifetime of climbing there.

And what's wrong with Wisconsin? The people are great and Madison, which is nearby, is a very hip town.
Ed Wright
Joined May 14, 2006
332 points
Oct 28, 2012
Above the beautifully positioned routes at Makapuu...
I think this is an interesting thread. Some spots are truly world class and others aren't.

Not a specific location, but all basalt crags are less appealing to me than any other kind of stone.

Ed mentioned British grit, which is actually great stone, but not worthy of an international trip for that purpose alone. It is short and the weather is always shite.

I have climbed once in Eldo and it was beautiful, but somewhat disturbing in terms of its rock quality and its different feel.

I think granite just spoils you to some extent.
John Shultz
From Osaka, Japan
Joined Dec 6, 2008
50 points
Oct 28, 2012
me
is there an area with more deaths in the last 20 yrs. than eldo? Ben Dover
Joined Oct 17, 2008
80 points
Oct 28, 2012
Mashers Tower
Ben Dover wrote:
is there an area with more deaths in the last 20 yrs. than eldo?

yes

why?
Cornelius Jefferson
Joined Apr 5, 2006
163 points
Oct 28, 2012
me
CJC wrote:
yes why?

ok, where?
Ben Dover
Joined Oct 17, 2008
80 points
Oct 28, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stile...
JML wrote:
is there an area with more deaths in the last 20 yrs. than eldo?

Ben Dover wrote:
ok, where?


Iraq.
Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Joined May 10, 2007
280 points
Oct 28, 2012
Zion - Vertical bushwacking, sand in my eyes/pants/shoes/etc., slabbage patch climbing, shitty anchors, scary routes, and all too crowded. Makes me wish for the overbolted choss piles of St. George any day of the week....

I'd add the crags from the Cedar City area, but I don't think anyone loves those.
Ryan Hill
From Oakland, CA
Joined Dec 8, 2009
48 points
Oct 28, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life
I've never understood the appeal of American Fork canyon. Every route feels like the same move - move from one crimpy pocket to the next crimpy pocket while alternating between having no feet and slipping off the greasy feet that you DO have. Great location; super pretty; short approaches - miserable climbing. I sometimes think that everyone pretends to love it just because they think everyone else does. Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Joined Apr 26, 2009
101 points
Oct 28, 2012
eureka ha
hahahahaha did someone really say that devils lake is the BEST rock in the WORLD?! and we though climbers from eldo were pretentious mozeman
Joined Dec 17, 2010
75 points
Oct 28, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Kenan: The "Eldo Sucks" statement was to raise ire, and make people click through. I don't honestly think Eldo sucks, I just don't get super psyched for most of what I've done there. I appreciate your point about, well basically elaborating. So, to not be a troll and make my point:

Eldo is the best crag on the Hwy 6/Hwy 93/Broadway St corridor. (Clear Creek is quite good though). But mostly, when given a full day. I'd much rather wake up early and go to S Platte or Lumpy's, I'm not incredibly enthralled with any of those areas.

Why? I think that the climbing that I enjoy is when I'm folllowing an aesthetic line. Indian Creek, Lumpy's, S Platte , Index and Leavenworth, WA, that's the rock that keeps me coming back.

Yes, those are all cracks climbing areas, but I think that style lends itself to striking lines. Yet at the same time, there are many sport routes in the SE, and actually a few in CCC that have that quality. The simple idea that, on this stretch of wall, this is the only way to go. This is the line that you follow. That inspires me.

I think that The Bastille and The Yellow Spur stand out to me as wonderful climbs in Eldo because their lines are so striking, and logical. However I feel as if a lot of what I've climbed there seems to simply be the one path of hundreds up similar stretches of the wall chosen simply due to the difficulty they present. "Here the wall is 5.11, there, twenty feet over there the wall is 5.9, we will belay on top of each other."

I realize, that to many of you, that aspect of Eldo is why it is simply so amazing and memorable. The rock is incredibly featured, there are so, so many options, which is really great, but in the end, it just makes whatever it is that I'm climbing seem less special and fulfilling.
willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Joined Jul 20, 2010
42 points


Follow replies to this topic? Notify me at the top of web site.
1

Email me.
Page 4 of 9.  <<First   <Prev   2  3  4  5  6   Next>   Last>>
Beyond the Guidebook:
The Definitive Climbing Resource
Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run
Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps
Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes
Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!