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Eldo sucks AKA the crag blasphemer's thread
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By Kenan
Oct 27, 2012
Shelf Rd

Colonel Mustard wrote:
If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there?


You wouldn't - and that's exactly the point! Maybe someone climbed an obscure chosspile or two and decided to never go back. Maybe they ran across a clan of douchebags that ruined their day. Maybe they were actually on an uber-classic route but got off route or stormed off and it put them in a foul mood. Maybe they went to an area that had a great reputation for overhanging sport routes and climbed a vertical trad route and decided that the area sucks. Or maybe they actually put in multiple days climbing highly-rated routes at that area and decided it actually sucks - for their taste, their style of climbing, their style of rock, ...whatever. It's that last scenario that I would actually find the most interesting in the case of Eldo. So I'm trying to tease it out.

Is anyone's opinion that Eldo sucks based on a substantial amount of climbing highly-rated routes there? If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all.

It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING

Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah


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By CJC
Oct 27, 2012

this thread is a fishing expedition using the tastiest bait (eldo)
to catch the biggest fish (boulderites)

and of course they're biting like crazy


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard

Kenan wrote:
If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all. It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah


If you find it fascinating, go for it. It proves nothing either way, although knowing the qualifications of an opinion is useful.

The most I've climbed at a place I've been the least impressed by is Red Rocks. I've ticked a few of the trad classics, I just don't like it. I actually liked the sport climbing Killis disparages there much better! It really makes no sense, the place has all the food groups I normally like, it's just a gut feeling of dislike, or maybe ambivalence.

I would still go there to tick a few of the "undisputed" classics to test once and for all if the place "sucks". But I'm not chomping at the bit for that exercise, there are so many other places I absolutely love.


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By Old and Busted
From Centennial, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Stabby

"Where's the good stone!?!"
-J. Bachar, after his first day at Eldo.


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By Ed Wright
Oct 27, 2012
Magic Ed

All I can say about Eldo is that I'm really fortunate to have done most of my climbing there back in the late '60s.

I have to disagree with Tony--Devil's Lake is a gem with the best rock on the planet--it just takes some getting used to.


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By mozeman
Oct 27, 2012

Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?!


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By Brian Scoggins
From Eugene, OR
Oct 27, 2012

mozeman wrote:
Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?!


All this time, I've been trying to articulate my feelings. There it is, right there.

In all seriousness, every time I go to Eldo, I've gotten on either the routes I learned to lead on, or a 4-star easy classic. And every time, I've encountered either a lot of loose rock, or the route has drastically changed since I last climbed it because of loose rock. I did Calypso maybe a week before that flake fell off, and then about 4 years after the fact. I got to very delicately climb around microwave sized blocks on Gambit. And I climbed the Bastille Crack, which is every bit as good as people say it is. If "4 stars" means "still might kill you on the road" at a suburban crag, you might need to re-evaluate how you hand out stars. These consistent experiences have driven me away from continuing to explore Eldo. I'll take Lumpy any day of the week over that. The reason I hate Eldo is that trying to find people who want to climb at Lumpy, or the Splatte was flippin' impossible because "Eldo is sooo much better". Its not. Its convenient, but if I only have one full day off a week, I'm going to spend it doing something awesome, not, well, Eldo.

Of course, I don't live in south Denver anymore, so the point is moot. Eldo is definitely Boulder's best crag. But it isn't even the best crag in the Front Range.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 27, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

I haven't been to a location where I couldn't find some climbing to enjoy..


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By Ed Rhine
Oct 27, 2012

HAHHAHA.. this is awesome. Love seeing all the people who are so much on either side of the fence. Eldo definitely rocks. There are some amazing lines at every grade and a super cool setting with a ton of history (and obviously drama as well). Is it world class, no. Probably some world class routes but come on people world class would have to mean its the best of kind for rock and style.... its just not. But it is super fun and very conveniently located. Enjoy


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By michaeltarne
Oct 27, 2012

^Salt Lake City? I'll take the Wasatch over Eldo any day of the week.


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By John Wilder
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 27, 2012

reboot wrote:
Name me another area in the US where you have quality climbing before or after work (with some schedule flexibility) almost year around and still have pretty good employment opportunities (which means you can afford to take those trips to actual world class destinations) and social life. That's huge if you are a climber that doesn't just aspire to a dirtbag lifestyle.


Vegas- i live 7 minutes from Red Rock. Its pretty sweet.

Salt Lake City- my friend lives 10-15 minutes from LCC.

I never really understood the appeal of Eldo- sure, there are some good routes, but for the most part, i've never cared for the climbing there. Don't get me wrong- if it was my home crag, i'm sure i'd climb there several days a week, but i'm not really a fan of the rock there for the most part.

That said, I still want to climb the Naked Edge- that thing looks incredible.


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By Tony B
From Around Boulder, CO
Oct 27, 2012
Got Milk? How about forearm pump? Tony leads "Alan Nelson's Bulging Belly" (5.10, X) on the Lost and Found Flatiron. Belayer is Mark Ruocco. Photo by Bill Wright, 10/06.

Ed Wright wrote:
I have to disagree with Tony--Devil's Lake is a gem with the best rock on the planet--it just takes some getting used to.

Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin...
Yep, I climbed there for years.


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By NickinCO
From colorado
Oct 27, 2012
after the hard stuff, into cruiser hands.

Tony B wrote:
Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin... Yep, I climbed there for years.


me too and +1


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By CJC
Oct 27, 2012

slc vs. boulder?

hahahahaha


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By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 27, 2012
Colonel Mustard

CJC wrote:
slc vs. boulder? hahahahaha


Yeah, there is that whole soulless, white bread, capitol of mormon-dom thing going on in SLC. At least my current city is chock full of soul. It happens to be a redneck one, but, you know, them's good people when she comes right down to 'er.

I actually wouldn't mind living either place, climbing-wise.


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By American Dankster
From Chattanooga
Oct 27, 2012

Every time I go to Eldo I Blast.....







Cuz it's soo cool. Anyone ever heard of the Yellow Spur?


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By Ed Wright
Oct 28, 2012
Magic Ed

Tony B wrote:
Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin... Yep, I climbed there for years.


Yeah, the rock is only 40 to 80 feet tall but so is the gritstone they rave about in England. You can have a big adventure on 80 feet of rock.
With 1800 routes and 600 boulder problems there is a lifetime of climbing there.

And what's wrong with Wisconsin? The people are great and Madison, which is nearby, is a very hip town.


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By John Shultz
From Osaka, Japan
Oct 28, 2012
Above the beautifully positioned routes at Makapuu. Oahu, HI.

I think this is an interesting thread. Some spots are truly world class and others aren't.

Not a specific location, but all basalt crags are less appealing to me than any other kind of stone.

Ed mentioned British grit, which is actually great stone, but not worthy of an international trip for that purpose alone. It is short and the weather is always shite.

I have climbed once in Eldo and it was beautiful, but somewhat disturbing in terms of its rock quality and its different feel.

I think granite just spoils you to some extent.


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By Ben Dover
Oct 28, 2012

is there an area with more deaths in the last 20 yrs. than eldo?


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By CJC
Oct 28, 2012

Ben Dover wrote:
is there an area with more deaths in the last 20 yrs. than eldo?

yes

why?


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By Ben Dover
Oct 28, 2012

CJC wrote:
yes why?

ok, where?


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By Marc H
From Lafayette, CO
Oct 28, 2012
The Cathedral Spires in RMNP, left to right: Stiletto, Sharkstooth, Forbidden Tower, Petit Grepon, The Saber, The Foil, The Moon & The Jackknife.

JML wrote:
is there an area with more deaths in the last 20 yrs. than eldo?

Ben Dover wrote:
ok, where?


Iraq.


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By Ryan Hill
From Oakland, CA
Oct 28, 2012

Zion - Vertical bushwacking, sand in my eyes/pants/shoes/etc., slabbage patch climbing, shitty anchors, scary routes, and all too crowded. Makes me wish for the overbolted choss piles of St. George any day of the week....

I'd add the crags from the Cedar City area, but I don't think anyone loves those.


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By Austin Baird
From SLC, Utah
Oct 28, 2012
Me scaring years off my mom's life

I've never understood the appeal of American Fork canyon. Every route feels like the same move - move from one crimpy pocket to the next crimpy pocket while alternating between having no feet and slipping off the greasy feet that you DO have. Great location; super pretty; short approaches - miserable climbing. I sometimes think that everyone pretends to love it just because they think everyone else does.


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By mozeman
Oct 28, 2012

hahahahaha did someone really say that devils lake is the BEST rock in the WORLD?! and we though climbers from eldo were pretentious


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