If you don't initially like the climbing, why would you compile a comprehensive tick list there?
You wouldn't - and that's exactly the point! Maybe someone climbed an obscure chosspile or two and decided to never go back. Maybe they ran across a clan of douchebags that ruined their day. Maybe they were actually on an uber-classic route but got off route or stormed off and it put them in a foul mood. Maybe they went to an area that had a great reputation for overhanging sport routes and climbed a vertical trad route and decided that the area sucks. Or maybe they actually put in multiple days climbing highly-rated routes at that area and decided it actually sucks - for their taste, their style of climbing, their style of rock, ...whatever. It's that last scenario that I would actually find the most interesting in the case of Eldo. So I'm trying to tease it out.
Is anyone's opinion that Eldo sucks based on a substantial amount of climbing highly-rated routes there? If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all.
It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING
Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah
If so, let's hear it. I'm curious, that's all. It's like talking to two people that watched a movie (or a presidential debate) and their opinions are so different that it seems like they watched two entirely different things. FASCINATING Mostly I'm just bored cuz it's a bit too cold & snowy to climb in crappy ol' Eldo today. hah
If you find it fascinating, go for it. It proves nothing either way, although knowing the qualifications of an opinion is useful.
The most I've climbed at a place I've been the least impressed by is Red Rocks. I've ticked a few of the trad classics, I just don't like it. I actually liked the sport climbing Killis disparages there much better! It really makes no sense, the place has all the food groups I normally like, it's just a gut feeling of dislike, or maybe ambivalence.
I would still go there to tick a few of the "undisputed" classics to test once and for all if the place "sucks". But I'm not chomping at the bit for that exercise, there are so many other places I absolutely love.
Eldo isnt even granite how could it be world class?!
All this time, I've been trying to articulate my feelings. There it is, right there.
In all seriousness, every time I go to Eldo, I've gotten on either the routes I learned to lead on, or a 4-star easy classic. And every time, I've encountered either a lot of loose rock, or the route has drastically changed since I last climbed it because of loose rock. I did Calypso maybe a week before that flake fell off, and then about 4 years after the fact. I got to very delicately climb around microwave sized blocks on Gambit. And I climbed the Bastille Crack, which is every bit as good as people say it is. If "4 stars" means "still might kill you on the road" at a suburban crag, you might need to re-evaluate how you hand out stars. These consistent experiences have driven me away from continuing to explore Eldo. I'll take Lumpy any day of the week over that. The reason I hate Eldo is that trying to find people who want to climb at Lumpy, or the Splatte was flippin' impossible because "Eldo is sooo much better". Its not. Its convenient, but if I only have one full day off a week, I'm going to spend it doing something awesome, not, well, Eldo.
Of course, I don't live in south Denver anymore, so the point is moot. Eldo is definitely Boulder's best crag. But it isn't even the best crag in the Front Range.
HAHHAHA.. this is awesome. Love seeing all the people who are so much on either side of the fence. Eldo definitely rocks. There are some amazing lines at every grade and a super cool setting with a ton of history (and obviously drama as well). Is it world class, no. Probably some world class routes but come on people world class would have to mean its the best of kind for rock and style.... its just not. But it is super fun and very conveniently located. Enjoy
Name me another area in the US where you have quality climbing before or after work (with some schedule flexibility) almost year around and still have pretty good employment opportunities (which means you can afford to take those trips to actual world class destinations) and social life. That's huge if you are a climber that doesn't just aspire to a dirtbag lifestyle.
Vegas- i live 7 minutes from Red Rock. Its pretty sweet.
Salt Lake City- my friend lives 10-15 minutes from LCC.
I never really understood the appeal of Eldo- sure, there are some good routes, but for the most part, i've never cared for the climbing there. Don't get me wrong- if it was my home crag, i'm sure i'd climb there several days a week, but i'm not really a fan of the rock there for the most part.
That said, I still want to climb the Naked Edge- that thing looks incredible.
Yeah, there is that whole soulless, white bread, capitol of mormon-dom thing going on in SLC. At least my current city is chock full of soul. It happens to be a redneck one, but, you know, them's good people when she comes right down to 'er.
I actually wouldn't mind living either place, climbing-wise.
Well, it is great stone... if only it were taller than 50'. And then there's the fact that it is plopped down right smack dab in the center of Wisconsin... Yep, I climbed there for years.
Yeah, the rock is only 40 to 80 feet tall but so is the gritstone they rave about in England. You can have a big adventure on 80 feet of rock. With 1800 routes and 600 boulder problems there is a lifetime of climbing there.
And what's wrong with Wisconsin? The people are great and Madison, which is nearby, is a very hip town.
Zion - Vertical bushwacking, sand in my eyes/pants/shoes/etc., slabbage patch climbing, shitty anchors, scary routes, and all too crowded. Makes me wish for the overbolted choss piles of St. George any day of the week....
I'd add the crags from the Cedar City area, but I don't think anyone loves those.
I've never understood the appeal of American Fork canyon. Every route feels like the same move - move from one crimpy pocket to the next crimpy pocket while alternating between having no feet and slipping off the greasy feet that you DO have. Great location; super pretty; short approaches - miserable climbing. I sometimes think that everyone pretends to love it just because they think everyone else does.