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Eldo sucks AKA the crag blasphemer's thread
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By BJ Sbarra
From Carbondale, CO
Oct 26, 2012
el guapo
I was just thinking that too Derek! Getting a good laugh out of this one.

FLAG
By JCM
From Seattle, WA
Oct 26, 2012
camhead wrote:
Other crags I think are over hyped .. and all of the Front Range except Splatte.



Funny, I think that in some ways the pendulum Front Range hype has swung the other way. After hearing for quite a while about how much the sport climbing in the Front Range sucks, I came with very low expectations when I moved here. I quickly discovered that it didn't suck nearly as much as I expected, and was psyched. Clear Creek, in particular, has continually exceeded my expectations, largely because I expected mediocrity-at-best, but actually found some good climbing.

It is all about expectations. For this reason, I like to be judicious with hyping an area. If I had been told that Clear Creek to be "world-class" I would have been sorely dissapointed.

The same reasoning applies to Eldo. Eldo is a pretty cool local resource for folks in Boulder/Golden/etc, but it isn't world class. So, the only reason people gripe about Eldo is that its fame makes people expect it to be more than it is--and they are dissapointed when it turns out to be less than what they expected. Eldo is actually a decent area, but it isn't one that can live up to "World Class" expectations.

An a similar (inverse) note, Rifle actually way-exceeded my rock-quality expectations. I had heard that it was a chossy, ugly, and super polished/greasy. It turned out that the rock was actually mostly pretty good, nice to look at, and only somewhat polished (except on a few over-trafficed routes). So, it exceeded my expectations.

So, I like to refer to most places as festering chosspiles, to keep expectations low.

FLAG
By R.Walters
Oct 26, 2012
Tits McGee wrote:
It's kinda like an ex-girlfriend that I know is crazy and has done scary stuff to other dudes, but for some reason I am motivated to keep going back to her...


Awesome. I love this thread.

+1 for Tetons=choss. Though I still find myself wanting to go back ... (^?)

FLAG
By NC Rock Climber
From The Oven, AKA Phoenix
Oct 26, 2012
tanuki
I'll put in another vote against The Red.

The climbing is fine. There are a few crags that are great. Miguel has done an awesome job of investing in his restaurant and campsite, and I wish him and his family all the success in the world. During the week, on the off-season, it can be a fun place.

That being said, the last few times I was at The Red on the weekend the place was overrun by University outdoor groups and numerous cliques of loud, obnoxious 20-something bros & babes of dubious climbing ability on their first trips outside. The better crags are always extremely crowded on the weekends and many of the hard-climbing locals are brimming over with attitude. It was not this way 8 years ago, but there has been a massive change in the personality of this place over the last 3 or 4 years. The New, especially the areas off the beaten track, are a much nicer option IMHO.

Flame away!

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By Buff Johnson
Oct 26, 2012
smiley face
Some have nicknamed me a prolific choss-master and I don't live anywhere near pussified Boulder.

Any big aired house of cards is my brier patch.

Eldo sucks, but only on a weekend

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By Darren in Vegas
From Las Vegas, NV
Oct 26, 2012
Skiing around.
NC Rock Climber wrote:
The Red... was not this way 8 years ago

yes it was.... I went a couple of times in 2004...climbing was good, climbers were lame. Scene at Miguel's was lamer.

edit to add: I would have to agree with whomever said that sport climbing in Red Rock is not all that. I like it because it is close to home and better than a gym, but I can't believe people come all the way here for it.

FLAG
By Steve Williams
From Denver, CO
Oct 26, 2012
So Eldo isn't world class?
Then why have so many hard climbers from around the
world visited and loved climbing there?

But then, it's only a 22 year old who doesn't know anything
better. . .

FLAG
By Locker
From Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 26, 2012
...
LOL!

Steve W is getting UPSET!

Go get 'em Steve! Set that young punk straight!

FLAG
 
By Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
Coffee after freezing our asses off near James Pea...
Another reason to hate the Red. The cops actually give you a ride to get gas when you run out on the highway!!!1111 F@ck$$$44 I think it was the tall, blonde chick I was with that facilitated that, though.


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By Kenan
Oct 26, 2012
Shelf Rd
Ummmm yeah, right... Eldo sucks! Please spread the word far and wide. LOL

FLAG
By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Steve Williams wrote:
So Eldo isn't world class? Then why have so many hard climbers from around the world visited and loved climbing there? But then, it's only a 22 year old who doesn't know anything better. . .


True, I mean, to know anything better someone would probably have to have lived in TN, and climbed all over the TN/AL/GA/KY sandstone belt with some N Carolina slab obviously, probably the Wyoming/Montana area too. Oh, and then of course the Pacific Northwest, I've heard there's nice granite there, then obviously Colorado, but only if he/she tried a lot of it, like CCC, Eldo, Lumpy's, South Platte, RMNP with some Indian Creek trips mixed in.

And OBVIOUSLY someone's how's 22 couldn't have possibly gathered all that perspective... Oh well.

FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
Bucky
Steve Williams wrote:
So Eldo isn't world class? Then why have so many hard climbers from around the world visited and loved climbing there? But then, it's only a 22 year old who doesn't know anything better. . .


Love it. This is the kind of post I was waiting for when I stated that Eldo is a choss heap. And world class you say? Pffft. The Park is world class. Tuolumne is world class. Eldo has a collection of really nice climbs, but the rock quality is just not good enough to call it world class. Besides, the whole "holier than thou" attitude that emanates from a lot of Eldo regulars doesn't exactly help the experience of climbing there either. Steve's response is a great case in point. Wait, am I old enough to comment? What's the cutoff? 30 years old? 40?

FLAG
By Andy Novak
From Golden, Co
Oct 26, 2012
Living the High Life.
^^^^ We got your sarcasm the fist time around dude ^^^^

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By frankstoneline
Oct 26, 2012
willeslinger wrote:
...Oh, and then of course the Pacific Northwest, I've heard there's nice granite there... Oh well.


this statement really illustrated your ignorance. The northwest is nothing but some hardened mud with holds molded by spandex and hammer and piles of stones rapidly succumbing to the temptations of gravity. Also rain.

FLAG
By Coppolo
From Denver, CO
Oct 26, 2012
Sunrise in Stevens gulch
yeah. I'm gonna quit climbing. Just not satisfied by any of climbing here.

FLAG
By C. Archibald
Oct 26, 2012
Me on some bolted 10 in boulder canyon
I LOVE reading these forums. Climbers are probably the most arrogant, obnoxious people on the planet. I think it's incredibly entertaining. Today I'm going to talk some trash and join the fun.


willeslinger wrote:
True, I mean, to know anything better someone would probably have to have lived in TN, and climbed all over the TN/AL/GA/KY sandstone belt with some N Carolina slab obviously, probably the Wyoming/Montana area too. Oh, and then of course the Pacific Northwest, I've heard there's nice granite there, then obviously Colorado, but only if he/she tried a lot of it, like CCC, Eldo, Lumpy's, South Platte, RMNP with some Indian Creek trips mixed in. And OBVIOUSLY someone's how's 22 couldn't have possibly gathered all that perspective... Oh well.



Dude ... maybe you should have finished high school before you became the most fabulously well-traveled 22 year old in the history of rock climbing. You may not like the Eldo run outs, but I don't like your run-on sentences. You have more comma splices than carabiners. I teach 7th grade english and my 12 year olds write tighter prose. Get it together, man.

FLAG
 
By D-Storm
Oct 26, 2012
Enjoying a misty day on top of the Bookmark on Lum...
Creed Archibald wrote:
You may not like the Eldo run outs, but I don't like your run-on sentences. You have more comma splices than carabiners. I teach 7th grade english and my 12 year olds write tighter prose. Get it together, man.


Boom! We should organize some climber battle rap events. Wrrrr-errrt, whuuut!

FLAG
By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
Bucky
Creed Archibald wrote:
I LOVE reading these forums. Climbers are probably the most arrogant, obnoxious people on the planet. I think it's incredibly entertaining. Today I'm going to talk some trash and join the fun. Dude ... maybe you should have finished high school before you became the most fabulously well-traveled 22 year old in the history of rock climbing. You may not like the Eldo run outs, but I don't like your run-on sentences. You have more comma splices than carabiners. I teach 7th grade english and my 12 year olds write tighter prose. Get it together, man.


(face palm)

Perhaps if you are going to slam someone for their grammer, then your grammer should be perfect, eh?

Tell your 7th graders that the "English" language requires capitalization.

Carry on.

FLAG
By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Creed Archibald wrote:
I LOVE reading these forums. Climbers are probably the most arrogant, obnoxious people on the planet. I think it's incredibly entertaining. Today I'm going to talk some trash and join the fun. Dude ... maybe you should have finished high school before you became the most fabulously well-traveled 22 year old in the history of rock climbing. You may not like the Eldo run outs, but I don't like your run-on sentences. You have more comma splices than carabiners. I teach 7th grade english and my 12 year olds write tighter prose. Get it together, man.


Oh shit. Grammar smack down. Probably the best diss since Eazy E's "Real Mutha F@&$ing G's reminded us that Dre Day only made Eazy's pay day.

FLAG
By willeslinger
From Golden, Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
I was pretty bummed when they didn't greenlight my...
Trolling aside, I dig some of these answers quite a bit. I only used Eldo to A. get a response and b. because that's the area that made me think about this. Jon Moen's point about pre conceived notions affecting our actual hands on experience is a great point. Index Washington is one of my favorite crags to climb at, and I think it's extra special for me because I didn't know it existed until two days before I first climbed there.

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By adam brink
From Boulder, CO
Oct 26, 2012
Arlo in all his magnificence.
Lets get this thread back on track. I've always thought Rifle is a greasy, overhyped, chipped pile. And Eldo rules by the way.

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By J. Albers
From Colorado
Oct 26, 2012
Bucky
adam brink wrote:
I've always thought Rifle is a greasy, overhyped, chipped pile.

You could also write the same sentence, but exchange "Jailhouse" for "Rifle". Although Jailhouse isn't so much a rock climbing area as it is a rock crawling area.

FLAG
By ben jammin
From Moab, UT
Oct 26, 2012
Aesthetics
Dude... pass me that blunt yo...

FLAG
By Nick Zmyewski
From Newark, Delaware
Oct 26, 2012
the frozen topout during a winter ascent
While we're talking about shitty crags, as an east coast climber, I want to give a shout out to the gunks. It's a long drive to expensive, crowded cliffs.

FLAG
 
By Colonel Mustard
From Reno, NV
Oct 26, 2012
Colonel Mustard
Red Rocks. It could crumble into sand tomorrow and I would just shrug.

FLAG


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